2020年经济学人 熊彼特专栏--LVMH对决爱马仕(3)

Hermes might have struggled to compete head-on. So instead— and this is the wise part—it played to its strengths. While rivals flocked to the fashionable, ostentatious and cutting-edge, it erred¹ on the side of discretion², timelessness and tradition. Its biggest hits today, the Birkin and Kelly handbags that often sell for $10,000 or more, are refreshed versions of what it has sold for decades. It can do whimsy³ and eye-catching: its website currently features a functioning porcelain⁴ skateboard, a snip⁵ at 3,350 euros. And whereas a Dior dress will last one season, an Hermes product is for life. As creative directors shuffle⁶ from one brand to the next, at Hermes the same designer has overseen⁷ menswear since 1988.

爱马仕可能很难正面对抗LVMH。因此，爱马仕没有选择正面竞争，而是明智地发挥自己的优势。在竞争对手们对时尚、耀眼和前沿的产品趋之若鹜时，爱马仕却在力求谨慎、永恒和传统。如今，爱马仕最受欢迎的产品是铂金手袋和凯利手袋，售价通常在1万美元或以上，尽管手袋版本不断更新，数十年来却一直畅销。它还可以进行奇思妙想的设计来吸引眼球：它的网站上目前发布了瓷器滑板专题，售价3350欧元。迪奥的连衣裙只能穿一季，而爱马仕的产品却能终身使用。创意总监们会从一个品牌跳到另一个品牌，而从1988年开始，爱马仕就一直任用同一位设计师监督男装设计。

Understatement works as a strategy only because Hermes enjoys an aura of exclusivity. This gives it pricing power to sell knickknacks for over ten times what they cost to make. Waiting lists for Birkins stretch for years. Because much of what it sells carries through the seasons, Hermes does not need discounts to get it off the shelves. That preserves both margins⁸ and the brand, a luxury group’s most valuable asset. The firm claims not to have a marketing⁹ department. It is the kind of claim a clever marketing department might dream up, but Hermes does spend only around 5% of revenues on advertising¹⁰ and promotions¹¹, half the share of rivals.

低调是爱马仕运行的策略，因为它享有一种排他性的光环。这使它拥有定价权，可以以超过制造成本10倍的价格出售小玩意。排队购买铂金包的顾客要等上数年。爱马仕销售的大部分商品都不会过季，因此它无需打折就能售空商品。这样既保留了利润，也保住了品牌价值，这也是奢侈品集团最宝贵的资产。爱马仕声称没有市场营销部门。这可能是明智的营销部门梦寐以求的说法，但爱马仕确实仅将收入的5％用于广告和促销，是竞争对手的一半。

1 erred   

犯错误，做错事( err的过去式和过去分词 )

参考例句：

• He erred in his judgement. 他判断错了。
• We will work on those who have erred and help them do right. 我们将对犯了错误的人做工作，并帮助他们改正。

2 discretion   

n.谨慎；随意处理

参考例句：

• You must show discretion in choosing your friend.你择友时必须慎重。
• Please use your best discretion to handle the matter.请慎重处理此事。

3 whimsy   

n.古怪，异想天开

参考例句：

• They are like oracular messages,but witty-jaunty at times-and sometimes trembling on the edge of whimsy.它们都像神谕，但很机智，有时极其轻快，有时又濒于怪诞。
• He had a whimsy about flying to the moon.他有个想飞上月球的怪念头。

4 porcelain   

n.瓷；adj.瓷的，瓷制的

参考例句：

• These porcelain plates have rather original designs on them.这些瓷盘的花纹很别致。
• The porcelain vase is enveloped in cotton.瓷花瓶用棉花裹着。

5 snip   

n.便宜货，廉价货，剪，剪断

参考例句：

• He has now begun to snip away at the piece of paper.现在他已经开始剪这张纸。
• The beautifully made briefcase is a snip at £74.25.这个做工精美的公文包售价才74.25英镑，可谓物美价廉。

6 shuffle   

n.拖著脚走，洗纸牌；v.拖曳，慢吞吞地走

参考例句：

• I wish you'd remember to shuffle before you deal.我希望在你发牌前记得洗牌。
• Don't shuffle your feet along.别拖着脚步走。

7 overseen   

v.监督，监视( oversee的过去分词 )

参考例句：

• He was overseen stealing the letters. 他被人撞见在偷信件。 来自辞典例句
• It will be overseen by ThomasLi, director of IBM China Research Laboratory. 该实验室由IBM中国研究院院长李实恭(ThomasLi)引导。 来自互联网

8 margins   

边( margin的名词复数 )； 利润； 页边空白； 差数

参考例句：

• They have always had to make do with relatively small profit margins. 他们不得不经常设法应付较少的利润额。
• To create more space between the navigation items, add left and right margins to the links. 在每个项目间留更多的空隙，加左或者右的margins来定义链接。

9 marketing   

n.行销，在市场的买卖，买东西

参考例句：

• They are developing marketing network.他们正在发展销售网络。
• He often goes marketing.他经常去市场做生意。

10 advertising   

n.广告业；广告活动 a.广告的；广告业务的

参考例句：

• Can you give me any advice on getting into advertising? 你能指点我如何涉足广告业吗?
• The advertising campaign is aimed primarily at young people. 这个广告宣传运动主要是针对年轻人的。

11 promotions   

促进( promotion的名词复数 )； 提升； 推广； 宣传

参考例句：

• All services or promotions must have an appeal and wide application. 所有服务或促销工作都必须具有吸引力和广泛的适用性。
• He promptly directed the highest promotions and decorations for General MacArthur. 他授予麦克阿瑟将军以最高的官阶和勋奖。