美国国家公共电台 NPR--前《Vogue》创意总监安德烈·莱昂·塔利去世，享年73岁

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Fashion journalist and ex-'Vogue¹' creative director André Leon Talley dies at 73

Transcript²

Talley, who worked at Women's Wear Daily and Vogue, was a regular in the front row of fashion shows in New York and Europe. At 6-feet-6 inches tall, he cut an imposing³ figure wherever he went.

DEBBIE ELLIOTT, HOST:

We learned overnight of the death of Andre Leon Talley, longtime editor at Vogue and, for many years, the most influential⁴ Black person in American fashion. Over his career, Talley worked for a number of fashion publications but most prominently Vogue. Karen Grigsby Bates from our Code Switch podcast is here to talk about Talley's life and career. Good morning, Karen.

KAREN GRIGSBY BATES, BYLINE⁵: Morning, Debbie.

ELLIOTT: So some people may have never seen Andre Leon Talley. You interviewed him a couple of years ago. What was he like? What did he look like, sound like? I understand he made quite an impression when he walked into a room.

GRIGSBY BATES: (Laughter) He did. Andre was hard to ignore. He was 6'6". And for the past few decades, he'd been in a constant battle with his weight. So he was tall and large with a big voice. And most, if not all, of his clothes were bespoke⁶. He loved beautiful, well-made things, and he did even as a child.

ELLIOTT: He grew up in the South. Tell us how his early experiences there shaped his sense of style.

GRIGSBY BATES: Well, he grew up in a small house in segregated⁸ Durham, N.C. His grandmother, Mrs. Binnie Francis Davis, raised him. And Mrs. Davis did domestic work at Duke. She kept an immaculate house, and she insisted that Andre, whom she doted on, be immaculate, too. He says his first understanding of style came from his family and his church. Everyone dressed beautifully. He remembers one aunt in particular.

(SOUNDBITE OF ARCHIVED RECORDING)

ANDRE LEON TALLEY: She would come for Easter Sunday services, and I remember she had on a lavender swing coat, and she had a lavender handbag and lavender high stiletto court shoes. And this is how I first saw style at its best.

ELLIOTT: He has some happy memories of his childhood but also unhappy ones that would end up haunting him throughout his adulthood⁹, right?

GRIGSBY BATES: He did, Debbie. From about age 9, for several years, Andre was abused by a man in his neighborhood, someone he knew. And like many children, he was afraid to tell anyone, so he pushed that knowledge deep down for decades. And he told me he finally talked about it when he was 70.

ELLIOTT: Despite that, Talley did find great success in his chosen career - fashion - and really became a true icon¹⁰.

GRIGSBY BATES: He spoke⁷ fluent French, and that got him an assignment from women's wear daily to cover important shows in France. He also worked at Harper's Bazaar¹¹, where the legendary¹² fashion editor Diana Vreeland mentored¹³ him. And he spent many years at Vogue with another legendary editor, Anna Wintour, who eventually made him creative director of the entire magazine.

ELLIOTT: Now, as a Black man in the upper echelons¹⁴ of the fashion world, did he talk about race at all and how it affected¹⁵ him?

GRIGSBY BATES: He said there were certainly slings¹⁶ and arrows from some who thought he didn't belong there. But he said he was always twice as prepared as his peers because he knew he had to be. Other than that, he said he just kept working hard.

ELLIOTT: How do you measure his influence in fashion, Karen?

GRIGSBY BATES: Well, because he was a first, his presence opened the door for others, and he was proud of the success of other Black people who came after. It's probably fair to say that, in some ways, he paved the way for Black men like Virgil Abloh, who died just a few months ago, at Louis Vuitton, or Edward Enninful, the very powerful editor in chief of British Vogue. He encouraged Anna Wintour to put people like Beyonce and Rihanna on the cover of Vogue, and he was very proud of writing Vogue's first profile of Michelle Obama. But, Debbie, he told me he wanted to be remembered for more than fashion.

(SOUNDBITE OF ARCHIVED RECORDING)

TALLEY: What I hope that I can impart - something beyond the dress or the belt, something beyond the label, something that has more long-lasting value.

ELLIOTT: Andre Leon Talley died Tuesday. He was 73 years old. Karen Grigsby Bates from our Code Switch podcast, thank you so much for helping¹⁷ us remember him.

GRIGSBY BATES: You're welcome.

(SOUNDBITE OF SEB WILDBLOOD'S "MUSCLE MEMORY")

1 Vogue   

n.时髦，时尚；adj.流行的

参考例句：

• Flowery carpets became the vogue.花卉地毯变成了时髦货。
• Short hair came back into vogue about ten years ago.大约十年前短发又开始流行起来了。

2 transcript   

n.抄本，誊本，副本，肄业证书

参考例句：

• A transcript of the tapes was presented as evidence in court.一份录音带的文字本作为证据被呈交法庭。
• They wouldn't let me have a transcript of the interview.他们拒绝给我一份采访的文字整理稿。

3 imposing   

adj.使人难忘的，壮丽的，堂皇的，雄伟的

参考例句：

• The fortress is an imposing building.这座城堡是一座宏伟的建筑。
• He has lost his imposing appearance.他已失去堂堂仪表。

4 influential   

adj.有影响的，有权势的

参考例句：

• He always tries to get in with the most influential people.他总是试图巴结最有影响的人物。
• He is a very influential man in the government.他在政府中是个很有影响的人物。

5 byline   

n.署名；v.署名

参考例句：

• His byline was absent as well.他的署名也不见了。
• We wish to thank the author of this article which carries no byline.我们要感谢这篇文章的那位没有署名的作者。

6 bespoke   

adj.（产品）订做的；专做订货的v.预定( bespeak的过去式 )；订（货）；证明；预先请求

参考例句：

• His style of dressing bespoke great self-confidence. 他的衣着风格显得十分自信。
• The haberdasher presented a cap, saying,"Here is the cap your worship bespoke." 帽匠拿出一顶帽子来说：“这就是老爷您定做的那顶。” 来自辞典例句

7 spoke   

n.（车轮的）辐条；轮辐；破坏某人的计划；阻挠某人的行动 v.讲，谈（speak的过去式）；说；演说；从某种观点来说

参考例句：

• They sourced the spoke nuts from our company.他们的轮辐螺帽是从我们公司获得的。
• The spokes of a wheel are the bars that connect the outer ring to the centre.辐条是轮子上连接外圈与中心的条棒。

8 segregated   

分开的； 被隔离的

参考例句：

• a culture in which women are segregated from men 妇女受到隔离歧视的文化
• The doctor segregated the child sick with scarlet fever. 大夫把患猩红热的孩子隔离起来。

9 adulthood   

n.成年，成人期

参考例句：

• Some infantile actions survive into adulthood.某些婴儿期的行为一直保持到成年期。
• Few people nowadays are able to maintain friendships into adulthood.如今很少有人能将友谊维持到成年。

10 icon   

n.偶像，崇拜的对象，画像

参考例句：

• They found an icon in the monastery.他们在修道院中发现了一个圣像。
• Click on this icon to align or justify text.点击这个图标使文本排齐。

11 bazaar   

n.集市，商店集中区

参考例句：

• Chickens,goats and rabbits were offered for barter at the bazaar.在集市上，鸡、山羊和兔子被摆出来作物物交换之用。
• We bargained for a beautiful rug in the bazaar.我们在集市通过讨价还价买到了一条很漂亮的地毯。

12 legendary   

adj.传奇（中）的，闻名遐迩的；n.传奇（文学）

参考例句：

• Legendary stories are passed down from parents to children.传奇故事是由父母传给孩子们的。
• Odysseus was a legendary Greek hero.奥狄修斯是传说中的希腊英雄。

13 mentored   

v.（无经验之人的）有经验可信赖的顾问( mentor的过去式和过去分词 )

参考例句：

• They had a fantastic dean who really mentored a lot of people. 那儿的教务长非常出色，的确为许多人提供了指导。 来自互联网
• The famous professor mentored him during his years in graduate school. 那位著名的教授在他读研究生期间指导他。 来自互联网

14 echelons   

n.（机构中的）等级，阶层( echelon的名词复数 )；（军舰、士兵、飞机等的）梯形编队

参考例句：

• Officers were drawn largely from the top echelons of society. 这些官员大都来自社会上层。 来自《简明英汉词典》
• Except in the higher echelons, extensive classification has no place in the classification of vegetation. 除高阶类级之外，外延分类在植物分类中还是没有地位的。 来自辞典例句

15 affected   

adj.不自然的，假装的

参考例句：

• She showed an affected interest in our subject.她假装对我们的课题感到兴趣。
• His manners are affected.他的态度不自然。

16 slings   

抛( sling的第三人称单数 )； 吊挂； 遣送； 押往

参考例句：

• "Don't you fear the threat of slings, Perched on top of Branches so high?" 矫矫珍木巅，得无金丸惧？ 来自英汉 - 翻译样例 - 文学
• Used for a variety of things including slings and emergency tie-offs. 用于绳套，设置保护点，或者紧急情况下打结。

17 helping   

n.食物的一份&adj.帮助人的，辅助的

参考例句：

• The poor children regularly pony up for a second helping of my hamburger. 那些可怜的孩子们总是要求我把我的汉堡包再给他们一份。
• By doing this, they may at times be helping to restore competition. 这样一来, 他在某些时候,有助于竞争的加强。