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(单词翻译:双击或拖选)
Science backs up the claim: The best waves are created by winds
Scientists used a wave pool designed for surfing to study how wind affects waves. The research will help them predict and track coastal2 flooding and erosion.
STEVE INSKEEP, HOST:
Scientists who study waves have confirmed what surfers already know - the best waves are created by winds. Falk Feddersen is a professor at Scripps Institute of Oceanography at UC San Diego.
FALK FEDDERSEN: The wind doesn't just affect how much the wave tubes, but it also affects at what location the wave breaks and how much turbulence3 the wave generates.
LEILA FADEL, HOST:
Feddersen and his team of researchers wanted to know more about how that works, so they took a trip to the Kelly Slater Wave Company Surf Ranch4. Yes, there really is a surf ranch on the central California coast.
FEDDERSEN: It's essentially5 - can be treated as a laboratory. We can control the waves but then the wind naturally varied6.
INSKEEP: They found offshore7 winds make the best tube or barrel waves. You can picture them now - the top of the wave curving downward, maybe a surfer in there, looking tiny.
FEDDERSEN: Offshore wind is when the wind blows from land straight out to sea. Onshore wind is when wind blows from sea straight onto land.
FADEL: The researcher will help create wave models that can be used to predict and track coastal flooding and shore erosion.
INSKEEP: And if surfers should also get some clues from all this, they'll surely be stoked.
(SOUNDBITE OF MUSIC)
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n.抄本,誊本,副本,肄业证书 | |
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coastal
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adj.海岸的,沿海的,沿岸的 | |
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turbulence
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n.喧嚣,狂暴,骚乱,湍流 | |
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ranch
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n.大牧场,大农场 | |
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essentially
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adv.本质上,实质上,基本上 | |
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varied
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adj.多样的,多变化的 | |
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offshore
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adj.海面的,吹向海面的;adv.向海面 | |
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