2022年经济学人 盘中的世界——禁食的艺术

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World in a dish -- The art of fasting

盘中的世界——禁食的艺术

January is a season of abstinence, take a lesson from Ethiopia

一月是禁欲的季节，向埃塞俄比亚学习

Short days, long nights, freezing temperatures, Christmas a swiftly fading memory and the prospect¹ of spring remote -- "the cruellest month" is not April, as T.S. Eliot wrote, but January.

白昼短暂、夜晚漫长、气温寒冷，有关圣诞的记忆迅速褪去，距离春天的到来还十分遥远——正如T.S.艾略特所写的，“最残酷的月份”不是4月，而是1月。

The garden harvest of frost-tipped kale and collards, and perhaps some beets², carrots and parsnips, is scant³ if often delicious.

菜园里结出的霜冻羽衣甘蓝，有时还有一些甜菜、胡萝卜和防风草，十分稀少，虽然它们味道不错。

January is the season of looking in the mirror and taking stock, of regret, determination and abstinence.

一月是反思和盘点的季节，也是属于后悔、决心和节制的季节。

It is Dry January, Veganuary, renewed gym memberships, vows⁴ to cycle everywhere and spend less time in the pub.

一月是戒酒月、素食月，是续费健身房会员卡、发誓无论去哪儿都骑自行车、少泡酒吧的月份。

In other words, it is fasting season.

换句话说，这是斋戒季。

These secular⁵ rituals have deep religious roots and ancient corollaries, meant to prompt reflection by bringing appetites to heel.

这些世俗的仪式有着深厚的宗教根源和古老的必然结果，目的是为了通过使欲望屈服来促进反思。

For Muslims during the daylight hours of Ramadan, or Jews on Yom Kippur, fasting means abstaining⁷ completely from food and drink as a way to draw closer to God.

对于处于斋月白天的穆斯林或赎罪日的犹太人来说，禁食意味着完全不吃不喝，以此来接近上帝。

But not every religious fast is all or nothing.

但并不是所有的宗教斋戒都像这样，要么什么都可以吃要么完全不吃。

Christians⁸ often give up meat during Lent.

基督徒在大斋节期间通常不吃肉。

Many Buddhists¹⁰ eschew¹¹ it periodically to instil¹² compassion¹³, foster progress towards enlightenment and improve their chances of a favourable¹⁴ rebirth.

许多佛教徒会定期不吃肉，以培养慈悲心怀，促进他们走向开悟，并提高他们涅槃的机会。

Some Buddhist⁹ monks¹⁵ and nuns¹⁶ routinely eat nothing after the noon meal.

一些佛教僧尼通常在午饭后不吃任何东西。

Few if any denominations¹⁷ require fasting as often as Ethiopian Orthodox Christianity.

很少有教派像埃塞俄比亚东正教那样经常禁食。

Priests and nuns must abstain⁶ from animal products, oil and wine for 250 days each year, lay worshippers for 180.

牧师和修女每年必须禁食动物制品、油脂和酒精250天，平信徒则要禁食180天。

For the 40 days of Advent¹⁸, leading up to Orthodox Christmas on January 7th, the faithful eat just one vegan meal per day.

在1月7日东正教圣诞节之前的为期40天的降临节期间，信徒们每天只吃一餐素食。

But in an example to ascetics¹⁹ everywhere, that meal need not be dreary²⁰ just because it is spare.

但对于各地的苦行僧来说，那顿饭不会仅仅因为它是简朴的就令人沮丧。

In Ethiopian cuisine²¹, even austere²² dishes are richly flavoured.

在埃塞俄比亚美食中，即使是朴素的菜肴也有浓郁的风味。

Shiro, for instance, is a stew²³ made from chickpea flour, stirred into hot water and seasoned with berbere -- a characteristic Ethiopian mixture usually containing ground dried chillies, black peppercorns and spices such as cinnamon, ginger²⁴ and cumin.

例如，Shiro是一种用鹰嘴豆粉做成的炖菜，把它加到热水中搅拌并用berbere调味——berbere是埃塞俄比亚特有的一种混合香料，通常含有磨碎的干辣椒、黑胡椒，还有肉桂、生姜和孜然等香料。

As it simmers, it fills the house with an earthy remix of Christmas aromas²⁵.

待它沸腾，它会使整个房间充满圣诞气息的泥土混合的香气。

Combined, as it usually is, with braised spiced cabbage and injera, a tangy Ethiopian bread made from fermented²⁶ teff flour, its velvety²⁷ texture²⁸ and warm kick leave you full but not stuffed.

通常情况下，会搭配红烧五香卷心菜和英吉拉一起吃，英吉拉是一种味道浓烈的埃塞俄比亚面包，由发酵的苔麸面粉制成，它丝绒般的质地和温热的口感让你感到饱了还想吃。

And since it contains neither animal products nor oil, it makes an acceptable fasting dish.

并且，由于它既不含动物制品也不含油脂，因此可被接受作为一种禁食期菜肴。

Eaten in this context, shiro and dishes like it encourage people to ponder broader questions about their diets and bodies.

在这种情境下，shiro和类似的菜肴鼓励人们仔细思考关于饮食和身体的广泛问题。

How much meat, if any, do they really need to eat?

如果吃肉的话，他们到底需要吃多少肉？

Can less food, munched²⁹ mindfully, be more satisfying than more of it eaten quickly but automatically?

有意识地咀嚼少量食物会比无意识地快速大量进食更有满足感吗？

Are they happier when driven by their appetites or in control of them?

是被欲望驱使还是控制欲望使他们更加快乐？

Giving up booze or burgers for a month can prompt similar questions among the secular.

一个月不喝酒或不吃汉堡或许会促使非宗教人士思考同样的问题。

It may not nudge them nearer the divine, but it can bring them closer to an understanding of their own urges.

这可能不会使他们更接近神，但可以让他们更加了解自己欲望。

A temporary renunciation is just that: January teetotallers and vegans will mostly be tipplers and carnivores again by February.

一次短暂的克制是这样的：一月份的戒酒者和素食者多半将在二月份再次成为酗酒者和食肉者。

But they may enjoy that martini or steak more for having forsworn them.

而他们可能会因为之前的禁食而更加喜欢马提尼或牛排了。

Fasting is not just a mortification³⁰ or denial; it is a reminder³¹ of the value and joy of food.

禁食不仅仅是一种禁欲或拒绝；它也是一种提醒，让人们记起食物带来的价值与满足。

1 prospect   

n.前景，前途；景色，视野

参考例句：

• This state of things holds out a cheerful prospect.事态呈现出可喜的前景。
• The prospect became more evident.前景变得更加明朗了。

2 beets   

甜菜( beet的名词复数 )； 甜菜根； （因愤怒、难堪或觉得热而）脸红

参考例句：

• Beets are Hank's favorite vegetable. 甜菜根是汉克最爱吃的蔬菜。
• In this enlargement, barley, alfalfa, and sugar beets can be differentiated. 在这张放大的照片上，大麦，苜蓿和甜菜都能被区分开。

3 scant   

adj.不充分的，不足的；v.减缩，限制，忽略

参考例句：

• Don't scant the butter when you make a cake.做糕饼时不要吝惜奶油。
• Many mothers pay scant attention to their own needs when their children are small.孩子们小的时候，许多母亲都忽视自己的需求。

4 vows   

誓言( vow的名词复数 )； 郑重宣布，许愿

参考例句：

• Matrimonial vows are to show the faithfulness of the new couple. 婚誓体现了新婚夫妇对婚姻的忠诚。
• The nun took strait vows. 那位修女立下严格的誓愿。

5 secular   

n.牧师，凡人；adj.世俗的，现世的，不朽的

参考例句：

• We live in an increasingly secular society.我们生活在一个日益非宗教的社会。
• Britain is a plural society in which the secular predominates.英国是个世俗主导的多元社会。

6 abstain   

v.自制，戒绝，弃权，避免

参考例句：

• His doctor ordered him to abstain from beer and wine.他的医生嘱咐他戒酒。
• Three Conservative MPs abstained in the vote.三位保守党下院议员投了弃权票。

7 abstaining   

戒（尤指酒），戒除( abstain的现在分词 )； 弃权（不投票）

参考例句：

• Abstaining from killing, from taking what is not given, & from illicIt'sex. 诸比丘！远离杀生，远离不与取，于爱欲远离邪行。
• Abstaining from arguments was also linked to an unusual daily cortisol pattern. 压抑争吵也造成每日异常的皮质醇波动。

8 Christians   

n.基督教徒( Christian的名词复数 )

参考例句：

• Christians of all denominations attended the conference. 基督教所有教派的人都出席了这次会议。
• His novel about Jesus caused a furore among Christians. 他关于耶稣的小说激起了基督教徒的公愤。

9 Buddhist   

adj./n.佛教的，佛教徒

参考例句：

• The old lady fell down in adoration before Buddhist images.那老太太在佛像面前顶礼膜拜。
• In the eye of the Buddhist,every worldly affair is vain.在佛教徒的眼里，人世上一切事情都是空的。

10 Buddhists   

n.佛教徒( Buddhist的名词复数 )

参考例句：

• The Jesuits in a phase of ascendancy, persecuted and insulted the Buddhists with great acrimony. 处于地位上升阶段的耶稣会修士迫害佛教徒，用尖刻的语言辱骂他们。 来自英汉非文学 - 历史
• The return of Saivite rule to central Java had brought no antagonism between Buddhists and Hindus. 湿婆教在中爪哇恢复统治后，并没有导致佛教徒与印度教徒之间的对立。 来自辞典例句

11 eschew   

v.避开，戒绝

参考例句：

• Eschew fattening foods if you want to lose weight.你如想减肥，就不要吃致肥的食物。
• Good kid should eschew bad company.好孩子应避免交坏朋友。

12 instil   

v.逐渐灌输

参考例句：

• It's necessary to instil the minds of the youth with lofty ideals.把崇高理想灌输到年青人的思想中去是很必要的。
• The motive of the executions would be to instil fear.执行死刑的动机是要灌输恐惧。

13 compassion   

n.同情，怜悯

参考例句：

• He could not help having compassion for the poor creature.他情不自禁地怜悯起那个可怜的人来。
• Her heart was filled with compassion for the motherless children.她对于没有母亲的孩子们充满了怜悯心。

14 favourable   

adj.赞成的，称赞的，有利的，良好的，顺利的

参考例句：

• The company will lend you money on very favourable terms.这家公司将以非常优惠的条件借钱给你。
• We found that most people are favourable to the idea.我们发现大多数人同意这个意见。

15 monks   

n.修道士，僧侣( monk的名词复数 )

参考例句：

• The monks lived a very ascetic life. 僧侣过着很清苦的生活。
• He had been trained rigorously by the monks. 他接受过修道士的严格训练。 来自《简明英汉词典》

16 nuns   

n.（通常指基督教的）修女， （佛教的）尼姑( nun的名词复数 )

参考例句：

• Ah Q had always had the greatest contempt for such people as little nuns. 小尼姑之流是阿Q本来视如草芥的。 来自《现代汉英综合大词典》
• Nuns are under vows of poverty, chastity and obedience. 修女须立誓保持清贫、贞洁、顺从。 来自辞典例句

17 denominations   

n.宗派( denomination的名词复数 )；教派；面额；名称

参考例句：

• Christians of all denominations attended the conference. 基督教所有教派的人都出席了这次会议。
• The service was attended by Christians of all denominations. 这次礼拜仪式各教派的基督徒都参加了。 来自《简明英汉词典》

18 advent   

n.(重要事件等的)到来，来临

参考例句：

• Swallows come by groups at the advent of spring. 春天来临时燕子成群飞来。
• The advent of the Euro will redefine Europe.欧元的出现将重新定义欧洲。

19 ascetics   

n.苦行者，禁欲者，禁欲主义者( ascetic的名词复数 )

参考例句：

• How does Paul's teaching differ from that of the ascetics about celibacy? 关于独身，保罗的教导与禁欲主义的教导有什麽分别？ 来自互联网
• Nevertheless, it is known that Hindu ascetics occasionally visited Greece. 然而，众所周知，印度的苦行僧偶然会拜访希腊。 来自互联网

20 dreary   

adj.令人沮丧的，沉闷的，单调乏味的

参考例句：

• They live such dreary lives.他们的生活如此乏味。
• She was tired of hearing the same dreary tale of drunkenness and violence.她听够了那些关于酗酒和暴力的乏味故事。

21 cuisine   

n.烹调，烹饪法

参考例句：

• This book is the definitive guide to world cuisine.这本书是世界美食的权威指南。
• This restaurant is renowned for its cuisine.这家餐馆以其精美的饭菜而闻名。

22 austere   

adj.艰苦的；朴素的，朴实无华的；严峻的

参考例句：

• His way of life is rather austere.他的生活方式相当简朴。
• The room was furnished in austere style.这间屋子的陈设都很简单朴素。

23 stew   

n.炖汤，焖，烦恼；v.炖汤，焖，忧虑

参考例句：

• The stew must be boiled up before serving.炖肉必须煮熟才能上桌。
• There's no need to get in a stew.没有必要烦恼。

24 ginger   

n.姜，精力，淡赤黄色；adj.淡赤黄色的；vt.使活泼，使有生气

参考例句：

• There is no ginger in the young man.这个年轻人没有精神。
• Ginger shall be hot in the mouth.生姜吃到嘴里总是辣的。

25 aromas   

n.芳香( aroma的名词复数 )；气味；风味；韵味

参考例句：

• Intoxicating earth aromas induced lassitude and ethereal calm. 泥土的醉人的芳香叫人懒洋洋的，感到一种远离尘世的宁静。 来自辞典例句
• Nose and elegant nose with attractive fruity, floral and citrus fruit aromas. 芳香：优雅、馥郁、迷人的柑橘属水果的果香及花的清香。 来自互联网

26 fermented   

v.（使）发酵( ferment的过去式和过去分词 )；（使）激动；骚动；骚扰

参考例句：

• When wine is fermented, it gives off gas. 酒发酵时发出气泡。 来自《简明英汉词典》
• His speeches fermented trouble among the workers. 他的演讲在工人中引起骚动。 来自辞典例句

27 velvety   

adj. 像天鹅绒的, 轻软光滑的, 柔软的

参考例句：

• a velvety red wine 醇厚的红葡萄酒
• Her skin was admired for its velvety softness. 她的皮肤如天鹅绒般柔软，令人赞叹。

28 texture   

n.(织物)质地；(材料)构造；结构；肌理

参考例句：

• We could feel the smooth texture of silk.我们能感觉出丝绸的光滑质地。
• Her skin has a fine texture.她的皮肤细腻。

29 munched   

v.用力咀嚼（某物），大嚼( munch的过去式和过去分词 )

参考例句：

• She munched on an apple. 她在大口啃苹果。
• The rabbit munched on the fresh carrots. 兔子咯吱咯吱地嚼着新鲜胡萝卜。 来自辞典例句

30 mortification   

n.耻辱，屈辱

参考例句：

• To my mortification, my manuscript was rejected. 使我感到失面子的是：我的稿件被退了回来。
• The chairman tried to disguise his mortification. 主席试图掩饰自己的窘迫。

31 reminder   

n.提醒物，纪念品；暗示，提示

参考例句：

• I have had another reminder from the library.我又收到图书馆的催还单。
• It always took a final reminder to get her to pay her share of the rent.总是得发给她一份最后催缴通知，她才付应该交的房租。