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RACHEL MARTIN, HOST:
We are what we eat, right? Food companies know that, so they make labels that appeal to a person's ideals - organic or cage-free, fair trade. NPR's Dan Charles looked into these labels for our Life Kit1 podcast, and he found out some people who depend on these labels also have mixed feelings.
DAN CHARLES, BYLINE2: Rebecca Thistlethwaite has spent most of her life trying to build a better food system.
REBECCA THISTLETHWAITE: I am the program manager of the Niche3 Meat Processor Assistance Network.
CHARLES: She helps people figure out how to make a living farming in a way that's good for the environment and humane4 for animals.
THISTLETHWAITE: I would never do away with labels. I think that farmers and food producers need to be able to tell their story.
CHARLES: And the words organic or pasture-raised can help tell the story, yet labels frustrate5 her. There can be such a gap between what they seem to promise and what they actually deliver. And marketing6 fills that gap. So for instance, free-range eggs - probably came from hens that spent most of their lives indoors. Or another example - non-GMO.
THISTLETHWAITE: (Laughter) I'm going to say, offhand7, that is probably my least favorite label.
CHARLES: Non-GMO means the food wasn't made from genetically8 modified crops. The main ones are corn, soybeans and sugar beets9. But companies are putting non-GMO on things like strawberries or mangoes that aren't ever genetically modified. Apparently10 because people think non-GMO means good for the environment, maybe less pesticide11 spray. But it does not.
THISTLETHWAITE: Non-GMO crops are still conventionally grown with synthetic12 pesticides13 and fertilizers. There's no significant environmental benefit.
CHARLES: On the other hand, organic really does mean no synthetic pesticides and fertilizers. Matthew Dillon, who is director of agriculture policy for the Clif Bar company, thinks that's the most trustworthy ecolabel.
MATTHEW DILLON: It's fully14 transparent15. It's enforced by law. It's got teeth to it.
CHARLES: But the organic industry also over-promises, he says. It's not really clear that organic food is healthier for you, the consumer.
DILLON: It makes a difference primarily to farmers, to rural communities, to soil health, to animal welfare.
CHARLES: And finally, there's an even deeper problem with labels. It came up when I was talking with Kim Elena Ionescu, chief sustainability officer for the Specialty16 Coffee Association. We were talking about the benefits of fair-trade coffee.
KIM ELENA IONESCU: You're strengthening smallholder farmer cooperatives. And there's a minimum price guaranteed, regardless of the volatility17 in the market.
CHARLES: And chances are you're making somebody's life better.
IONESCU: I hope so.
CHARLES: You don't sound super convinced.
IONESCU: Well, that's where I feel like the marketing piece gets tricky18.
CHARLES: The problem, she says, is maybe that minimum price just isn't enough to lift a small coffee producer out of poverty.
IONESCU: I mean, it's possible that that producer has a very small amount of land, and there is no price high enough to make that tiny plot of land a viable19 economic support system for the family.
CHARLES: Or as Rebecca Thistlethwaite put it...
THISTLETHWAITE: Labels are - they're like Band-Aids. They're just superficial kind of feel-good solutions to systemic problems.
CHARLES: Those ecolabels like, organic or grass-fed - they may not preserve much wildlife habitat or slow down global warming, which seems kind of depressing. But Matthew Dillon at Clif Bar says it shouldn't be. Consumers, actually, should feel relieved.
DILLON: They should, first of all, understand that improving the food system is not all on them, that they shouldn't feel guilt20 and shame about the purchases they make.
CHARLES: Our individual shopping decisions are not going to solve these big problems, he says. But political decisions really could, like environmental regulations. He says that's what we ought to be focusing on.
Dan Charles, NPR News.
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1 kit | |
n.用具包,成套工具;随身携带物 | |
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2 byline | |
n.署名;v.署名 | |
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3 niche | |
n.壁龛;合适的职务(环境、位置等) | |
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4 humane | |
adj.人道的,富有同情心的 | |
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5 frustrate | |
v.使失望;使沮丧;使厌烦 | |
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6 marketing | |
n.行销,在市场的买卖,买东西 | |
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7 offhand | |
adj.临时,无准备的;随便,马虎的 | |
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8 genetically | |
adv.遗传上 | |
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9 beets | |
甜菜( beet的名词复数 ); 甜菜根; (因愤怒、难堪或觉得热而)脸红 | |
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10 apparently | |
adv.显然地;表面上,似乎 | |
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11 pesticide | |
n.杀虫剂,农药 | |
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12 synthetic | |
adj.合成的,人工的;综合的;n.人工制品 | |
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13 pesticides | |
n.杀虫剂( pesticide的名词复数 );除害药物 | |
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14 fully | |
adv.完全地,全部地,彻底地;充分地 | |
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15 transparent | |
adj.明显的,无疑的;透明的 | |
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16 specialty | |
n.(speciality)特性,特质;专业,专长 | |
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17 volatility | |
n.挥发性,挥发度,轻快,(性格)反复无常 | |
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18 tricky | |
adj.狡猾的,奸诈的;(工作等)棘手的,微妙的 | |
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19 viable | |
adj.可行的,切实可行的,能活下去的 | |
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20 guilt | |
n.犯罪;内疚;过失,罪责 | |
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