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英国卫报:Gap是如何迷失自己的?(4)

时间:2023-01-16 09:16来源:互联网 提供网友:nan   字体: [ ]
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  Thanks to its sturdy construction, denim1 was originally worn by farmers, miners and industrial workers, but in the mid-20th century, it became the perfect uniform for young people interested in rejecting social hierarchies2.

  由于牛仔裤结实的材质,最初是农民、矿工和产业工人穿的,但在20世纪中期,它成为有兴趣拒绝社会等级的年轻人的完美制服。

  On American college campuses in 1960, you would have found young men wearing blazers, ties and corduroys and young women in wool tweed skirts and sweaters, said Regina Blaszczyk, a professor of business history at the University of Leeds.

  利兹大学商业史教授雷吉娜·布拉兹奇克说,在1960年的美国大学校园里,你会发现年轻男子穿着西装、领带和灯芯绒,年轻女子穿着羊毛粗花呢裙子和毛衣。

  But, she continued, “By the end of the decade, they’re wearing jeans.”

  但是,她继续说道,“到六十年代末,他们都穿牛仔裤。”

  And by the 1970s, this look, like other elements of the counterculture, had gone mainstream3.

  到了20世纪70年代,这种装扮,就像其他反主流文化的元素一样,成为了主流。

  Riding the denim craze, Gap expanded across the country, launching its own Gap label to sell alongside Levi’s jeans, and went public in 1976.

  乘着牛仔的热潮,Gap在全国范围内扩张,推出了自己的Gap品牌,与Levi’s牛仔裤一起销售,并于1976年上市。

  (Fisher phased out selling records early on, when it became apparent that jeans were a much bigger draw.)

  (费舍尔很早就淘汰了录音带,当时牛仔裤显然更具吸引力。)

  But because Gap relied on Levi’s so heavily, it was vulnerable to the other company’s fortunes.

  但由于Gap严重依赖Levi’s,它很容易受到另一家公司命运的影响。

  After the Federal Trade Commission accused Levi’s of price-fixing in 1976, Gap missed its target stock price at IPO.

  1976年,美国联邦贸易委员会指控Levi’s操纵价格后,Gap未能在IPO中实现目标股价。

  When that ruling gave other retailers5 permission to mark down Levi’s goods, Gap faced pressure to drop its own prices to remain competitive.

  这一裁决允许其他零售商降低Levi’s的商品价格,Gap面临着降低价格以保持竞争力的压力。

  “It became a big enough problem that Gap strategically felt they had to migrate away from Levi’s,” said Mark Cohen, the director of retail4 studies at Columbia Business School, who worked for Fisher in the late 70s.

  “这已经成了一个大问题,从战略上看,Gap必须离开李维斯。”哥伦比亚大学商学院零售业研究主管马克·科恩说,他曾在70年代末为费舍尔工作。

  Gap tried new ideas -- Cohen worked on a short-lived brand called Logo, which catered6 to an older audience that couldn’t wear jeans to work (Cohen describes it as “kind of a precursor7 to Banana Republic”) -- and introduced a wider variety of clothing to its stores, but it had little success.

  Gap尝试了新的想法--科恩开发了一个名为Logo的短暂品牌,迎合了不能穿牛仔裤上班的老年受众(科恩将其描述为品牌“Banana Republic的前身”)--并在其门店推出了更多种类的服装,但收效甚微。

  Then, in 1983, Fisher made a brilliant move.

  1983年,费舍尔做出了一项绝妙的举动。

  Seeing how well the women’s clothing chain Ann Taylor was performing, he decided8 to hire the person behind its success.

  看到女装连锁店Ann Taylor的表现如此出色,他决定聘请该公司成功背后的人。

  That was Millard “Mickey” Drexler, who went on to turn Gap into a global juggernaut.

  这就是米勒德·德雷克斯勒,他后来把Gap打造成了全球巨头。

  Drexler left Ann Taylor on a Friday, flew to San Francisco over the weekend and started his new job as president of Gap on the Monday.

  德雷克斯勒在周五离开Ann Taylor,周末飞往旧金山,周一开始他作为Gap总裁的新工作。

  “It was a business without taste or style, or a point of view,” Drexler told me.

  德雷克斯勒告诉我:“这是一个没有品味、风格或观点的行业。”

  He planned to make colour a cornerstone of Gap’s sensibility and pare down the number of styles it sold.

  他计划让色彩成为Gap敏感度的基石,并减少其销售的款式数量。

  He planned to give it an identity.

  他计划给它一个特色。


点击收听单词发音收听单词发音  

1 denim o9Lya     
n.斜纹棉布;斜纹棉布裤,牛仔裤
参考例句:
  • She wore pale blue denim shorts and a white denim work shirt.她穿着一条淡蓝色的斜纹粗棉布短裤,一件白粗布工作服上衣。
  • Dennis was dressed in denim jeans.丹尼斯穿了一条牛仔裤。
2 hierarchies 363a3f0eb8ee21c582e96e99979801de     
等级制度( hierarchy的名词复数 ); 统治集团; 领导层; 层次体系
参考例句:
  • That's a trip of two hierarchies. 那是两个领导层之间的互访。
  • Hierarchies of authority, spans of control, long-range plans, and budgets. 等级森严的权力机构,控制范围,长期计划,预算。 来自英汉文学 - 廊桥遗梦
3 mainstream AoCzh9     
n.(思想或行为的)主流;adj.主流的
参考例句:
  • Their views lie outside the mainstream of current medical opinion.他们的观点不属于当今医学界观点的主流。
  • Polls are still largely reflects the mainstream sentiment.民调还在很大程度上反映了社会主流情绪。
4 retail VWoxC     
v./n.零售;adv.以零售价格
参考例句:
  • In this shop they retail tobacco and sweets.这家铺子零售香烟和糖果。
  • These shoes retail at 10 yuan a pair.这些鞋子零卖10元一双。
5 retailers 08ff8df43efeef1abfd3410ef6661c95     
零售商,零售店( retailer的名词复数 )
参考例句:
  • High street retailers reported a marked increase in sales before Christmas. 商业街的零售商报告说圣诞节前销售量显著提高。
  • Retailers have a statutory duty to provide goods suitable for their purpose. 零售商有为他们提供符合要求的货品的法定义务。
6 catered 89d616ab59cbf00e406e8778a3dcc0fc     
提供饮食及服务( cater的过去式和过去分词 ); 满足需要,适合
参考例句:
  • We catered for forty but only twenty came. 我们准备了40客饭菜,但只来了20个人。
  • They catered for everyone regardless of social rank. 他们为所有人服务而不计较其社会地位。
7 precursor rPOx1     
n.先驱者;前辈;前任;预兆;先兆
参考例句:
  • Error is often the precursor of what is correct.错误常常是正确的先导。
  • He said that the deal should not be seen as a precursor to a merger.他说该笔交易不应该被看作是合并的前兆。
8 decided lvqzZd     
adj.决定了的,坚决的;明显的,明确的
参考例句:
  • This gave them a decided advantage over their opponents.这使他们比对手具有明显的优势。
  • There is a decided difference between British and Chinese way of greeting.英国人和中国人打招呼的方式有很明显的区别。
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