海外文化:中国地方食物正在接管英国

 　　Kai Wang and her friends like to sniff¹ out the latest regional Chinese restaurants: a tiny cafe in east London specialising in food from China's north-east, or one near London Bridge serving numbing² and hot crayfish. Kai, 26, is a media professional who came to the UK from Beijing in 2008, first to study and then to work. "When I arrived in London I thought I was really going to miss Beijing food. I love traditional Beijing cuisine³, but also the spicy⁴ regional cuisines⁵ that have become popular in recent years: Sichuan, Hunan and Hubei. When I came to the UK, the Chinese food here all seemed to be so sweet and westernised, with a focus on the Cantonese style, which is too light and delicate for Beijing tastes. But more and more authentic⁶ Chinese regional restaurants have opened in the past few years, not just in Chinatown but all over the city."

　　王凯（音译）和她的朋友们乐于发觉最新的中国地方菜餐馆：一家位于伦敦东部专营中国西北菜的小餐馆，或是一家位于伦敦桥旁的餐馆提供「麻辣小龙虾」。凯（音译）是一位2008年从北京前往英国的专业媒体人，先求学后就业。“当我到达伦敦的时候，我想我开始切实的想念北京的食物。我爱老北京的传统烹饪，同时麻辣口味地区的菜肴在近年也开始流行起来：四川，湖南和湖北。我来英国时，这里的中国菜看来都是过甜和过于西化的，集中于粤式，相较于北京（菜肴）的口感太过清淡。但是近几年越来越多正宗的中国地方菜餐馆开业，不仅限于中国城，遍及城市。

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　　It is people like Kai who have been one of the driving forces in a revolution in Chinese cooking in London and Manchester, and increasingly all over the UK. Unlike the older generation of Cantonese immigrants who arrived decades ago, bringing with them Hong Kong flavours adapted to western tastes, Kai and her contemporaries want to eat bolder, spicier⁷ food, and the trendy dishes that remind them of home. "So many westerners order dishes such as sweet-and-sour pork, char⁸ siu buns and stir-fried rice noodles with beef, which I really don't like," she says.

　　正是像凯（音译）这样的人们驱使着伦敦和曼彻斯特地区的中餐烹饪进行变革，而且逐渐遍及整个英国。不同于数十年前抵达的老一辈广东移民，所带来的适应西式口感的港式风味，凯（音译）和她的同辈想要更猛，更辣的菜式，这些时髦的菜肴能让他们想起故乡。“如此多的西方人点例如「糖醋里脊」、「叉烧包」、「炒饭」和「牛肉面」等菜肴，我都不甚喜欢。”她说。

　　In the mid-1990s, a restaurant called Baguo Buyi opened in the Sichuanese capital, Chengdu, giving a glamorous⁹ new spin to Sichuan folk cooking and setting off a nationwide craze for Sichuanese flavours that is only now beginning to cool. Since then, Hunanese food and the hearty¹⁰ cooking of the north-eastern or Dongbei region have also enjoyed their time in the limelight of Chinese culinary fashion. More recent Chinese arrivals to the UK, who include not only students but also businesspeople and tourists, are just as likely to come from Fujian, Shanghai or Liaoning as the Cantonese south of China, which means that Chinese restaurateurs no longer need to adapt their tastes to an old stereotype¹¹ of Anglo-Cantonese food.

　　在上世纪90年代中期，一家名为『巴国布衣（Baguo Buyi，音译）』的餐馆于四川省省会成都开业，给予了民间川菜烹饪一个富有魅力的疾驰（式发展），并引爆了全国范围内对川式口味的狂热，而今已经成为了一种时尚。自此以后，湖南菜、丰盛的西北或东北菜也开始享受起了其在中国烹饪风尚中引人注目的时代。近来来到英国的中国人，不仅仅包括留学生，也包括商人和游客，（这些）来自福建、上海或者辽宁的中国人，就像来自中国南方的广东人一样。这意味着中餐馆不再需要调试其口味以适应那些老古板一般的英-粤式菜肴。

　　Many establishments, including Liao Wei Feng in Bethnal Green and Local Friends in Golders Green, have menus divided into two sections. They have one list of the usual Anglo-Canto suspects, including lemon chicken and crispy duck, and another offering some of the most authentic Hunanese food available in the capital, with dishes such as "stir-fried fragrant¹² and hot fish" and "steamed belly¹³ pork, Chairman Mao-style".

　　许多餐馆，包括【贝思纳尔格林（Bethnal Green）】的『辽味风（Liao Wei Feng，音译）』和【戈尔德斯格林（Golders Green）】的『当地友人（Local Friends）』，有两份菜单。其中一份列有惯常的英-粤菜式菜肴，包括「柠檬鸡」和「香酥鸭」，另一份提供了在首都（伦敦）可以获得的地道湖南菜，如“「炒香辣鱼」”和“「毛氏红烧肉」”。

　　North-eastern and Hunanese cuisines are not the only ones making gradual inroads into British restaurant culture. Large numbers of Fujianese immigrants have joined the catering¹⁴ trade, although they are often inconspicuous in the kitchens of Cantonese restaurants. Fujian province lies on the south-eastern Chinese coast, and is known for its delicate soups, appetising street snacks and gentle way with oysters¹⁵ and other seafood¹⁶. A handful of Fujianese cafes have come and gone in London: only one remains¹⁷, Fuzhou in Gerrard Street, which is the place to go for gorgeous fishballs stuffed with minced¹⁸ pork and cabbage-and-clam soup with slippery rice pasta.

　　西北和湖南菜肴不是唯一入侵英国餐饮文化的。大量的福建移民开始加入餐饮行业，尽管他们在粤式餐馆的厨房并不常显眼。福建省位于中国东南海岸线上，少量的福建餐馆在英国来来往往：只有一家留存下来，【杰拉德大街（Gerrard Street）】的『福州（Fuzhou）』，那是追寻——填满猪肉末的极品鱼丸和配以卷心菜蛤蜊汤的爽滑米粉——的地方。

　　Shanghainese food has traditionally been hard to find in Britain, although the city lies in one of China's richest gastronomic¹⁹ regions. The city itself is best known for the xiao long bao "soup dumpling" and for its sweet, soy-dark braises, but the wider region is the source of exquisite²⁰ river delicacies²¹ such as crab²², eel²³ and shrimp²⁴, and famous dishes including beggar's chicken and dongpo pork. For a glimpse of Shanghainese cuisine, seek out the elegant dishes created by Shanghainese consultant²⁵ chef Zhang Chichang at the Bright Courtyard Club in Baker²⁶ Street, or the modest, homestyle stir-fries such as green soya beans with pork and pickled greens at Red Sun in New Quebec Street.

　　传统上沪菜在英国很难被发现，尽管这座城市位于中国最富美食烹饪的地区之一。这座城市最富盛名的莫过于小笼包“汤包”和其甜口、酱焖（菜式），更广泛源于其精致的河鲜如螃蟹、鳗鱼和虾。知名菜式包括「叫花鸡」和「东坡肉」。想一睹上海菜的佳肴。去找【贝克大街（Baker Street）】的『光明庭俱乐部（Bright Courtyard Club，音译）』的沪菜顾问张驰昌（音译）大厨亲手烹制的优雅菜肴，或者位于【新魁北克大街（New Quebec Street）】的『红日（Red Sun）』那最现代的、家常炒菜如「绿豆猪肉」和「腌制蔬菜」。

　　Sichuan and Hunan are China's best-known spice regions, but chillies are also adored in Guizhou province. Maotai Kitchen in Soho, named after the famous local liquor, offers Guizhou food. The jovial²⁷ chef, Zhu Shixiu, grew up in the beautiful hills near the Guizhou-Hunan border, and, after years working in Cantonese restaurants, has been given free rein²⁸ with the menu. His wife makes the "villagers' pickled Chinese cabbage", a delicious salad laced with coriander, fermented²⁹ black beans and chilli. Many of his rustic³⁰ dishes share the sour-hot characteristic of Hunan cooking, but the intriguing³¹ lemongrass note in some of them comes from litsea oil (mu jiang you), a Chinese medicine used as a condiment³² in Guizhou and a few other regions. Maotai Kitchen is part of the same group as Leong's Legends, which serves Taiwanese specialities.

　　四川和湖南是中国最负盛名的香料产区，但贵州省同样嗜辣。【索霍区（Soho）】的『茅台灶（Maotai Kitchen）』，以当地名酒为店名，供应贵州菜肴。快乐的主厨，朱石秀（音译），成长于湘黔交界的小山中，而且，在粤式餐馆工作数年后，被给予了制定菜单的自由。他的妻子制作的“乡村腌白菜”，是一道点缀香菜、豆豉和辣椒的美味沙拉。他制作的许多乡村菜肴里包含了湖南菜式烹饪的酸辣特色，但其中一些菜色的迷人的柠檬草香来自于木姜油（litsea oil ，mu jiang you)，一味在贵州和一些其他地区被当做调味品的中草药。『茅台灶（Maotai Kitchen）』是『梁山好汉（Leong's Legends）』集团的一员，这是一家供应台湾菜肴的集团。

　　While there has been a flowering of regional cuisines in London, only Sichuanese cuisine has really broken out of the capital and begun its long march all over the country – a sign, perhaps, of its decade-long status as China's trendiest style of cooking. Red N Hot has branches in Manchester and Birmingham, while Red Chilli has expanded from its original Manchester HQ into Leeds and York: the spicy menu charmingly promises to look after "your pocket, stomach and soul". And in Oxford³³, My Sichuan has taken over the old school house at Gloucester Green, where chef Zhou Jun from Chengdu presides over a kitchen offering all the classic Sichuanese specialities.

　　作为在伦敦开花的一种地方菜色，或许，只有四川菜已经冲出省府并开始了全国的长征——引领数十年中国烹饪风尚的地位的一个标志。『红和辣（Red N Hot）』已经在曼彻斯特和伯明翰开设了分店，同时『红辣椒（Red Chilli）』已经从原本的曼彻斯特总部扩张至利兹市和纽约市：辣口菜单诱人地保证着照顾“你的口袋，胃和灵魂”。在牛津，『我的四川（My Sichuan）』已经接管了【格洛斯特格林（Gloucester Green）】的旧校舍，来自成都的大厨周军（音译）主持着一间提供全套传统川菜的厨房。

　　As China's changing culinary fashions continue to cause ripples³⁴ in the restaurant scene in London, the range of regional flavours is only likely to increase and spread across the country. In the meantime, Sichuanese cuisine has already radically³⁵ changed the face of Chinese food in many parts of Britain. No one, it seems, need go for long without dry-fried beans or a bowlful of sliced sea bass³⁶ in a sea of sizzling chilli oil.

　　中国变化中的烹饪风尚波及伦敦的餐饮业，地域口味的范围已经增加并席卷全国。在此期间，川式烹饪已经从根本上改变了英国许多部分中餐的面貌。没人能够长期离得开干炸黄豆或一碗热滋滋的辣椒油中的海鲈鱼片。

1 sniff   

vi.嗅…味道；抽鼻涕；对嗤之以鼻，蔑视

参考例句：

• The police used dogs to sniff out the criminals in their hiding - place.警察使用警犬查出了罪犯的藏身地点。
• When Munchie meets a dog on the beach, they sniff each other for a while.当麦奇在海滩上碰到另一条狗的时候，他们会彼此嗅一会儿。

2 numbing   

adj.使麻木的，使失去感觉的v.使麻木，使麻痹( numb的现在分词 )

参考例句：

• Watching television had a numbing effect on his mind. 看电视使他头脑麻木。
• It was numbing work, requiring patience and dedication. 这是一种令人麻木的工作，需要有耐心和忘我精神。 来自辞典例句

3 cuisine   

n.烹调，烹饪法

参考例句：

• This book is the definitive guide to world cuisine.这本书是世界美食的权威指南。
• This restaurant is renowned for its cuisine.这家餐馆以其精美的饭菜而闻名。

4 spicy   

adj.加香料的；辛辣的，有风味的

参考例句：

• The soup tasted mildly spicy.汤尝起来略有点辣。
• Very spicy food doesn't suit her stomach.太辣的东西她吃了胃不舒服。

5 cuisines   

n.烹饪( cuisine的名词复数 )；菜肴；（通常指昂贵的饭店中的）饭菜；烹饪艺术

参考例句：

• Could you tell me the different features of these cuisines? 能不能告诉我这些不同的烹调流派各自有哪些特点？ 来自地道口语脱口SHOW 高中超越版
• Ice sculptures are used as decorations in some cuisines, especially in Asia. 冰雕在某些菜肴中被当作装饰品，尤其在亚洲。 来自互联网

6 authentic   

a.真的，真正的；可靠的，可信的，有根据的

参考例句：

• This is an authentic news report. We can depend on it. 这是篇可靠的新闻报道, 我们相信它。
• Autumn is also the authentic season of renewal. 秋天才是真正的除旧布新的季节。

7 spicier   

adj.用香料调味的( spicy的比较级 )；有香料味的；有刺激性的；（故事、新闻等） 刺激的

参考例句：

• She added some green chili peppers to her cheese dip to make spicier. 她在起司沾酱中加了一些青辣椒让它辛辣一点。 来自互联网

8 char   

v.烧焦；使...燃烧成焦炭

参考例句：

• Without a drenching rain,the forest fire will char everything.如果没有一场透地雨，森林大火将烧尽一切。
• The immediate batch will require deodorization to char the protein material to facilitate removal in bleaching.脱臭烧焦的蛋白质原料易在脱色中去除。

9 glamorous   

adj.富有魅力的；美丽动人的；令人向往的

参考例句：

• The south coast is less glamorous but full of clean and attractive hotels.南海岸魅力稍逊，但却有很多干净漂亮的宾馆。
• It is hard work and not a glamorous job as portrayed by the media.这是份苦差，并非像媒体描绘的那般令人向往。

10 hearty   

adj.热情友好的；衷心的；尽情的，纵情的

参考例句：

• After work they made a hearty meal in the worker's canteen.工作完了，他们在工人食堂饱餐了一顿。
• We accorded him a hearty welcome.我们给他热忱的欢迎。

11 stereotype   

n.固定的形象，陈规，老套，旧框框

参考例句：

• He's my stereotype of a schoolteacher.他是我心目中的典型教师。
• There's always been a stereotype about successful businessmen.人们对于成功商人一直都有一种固定印象。

12 fragrant   

adj.芬香的，馥郁的，愉快的

参考例句：

• The Fragrant Hills are exceptionally beautiful in late autumn.深秋的香山格外美丽。
• The air was fragrant with lavender.空气中弥漫薰衣草香。

13 belly   

n.肚子，腹部；(像肚子一样)鼓起的部分，膛

参考例句：

• The boss has a large belly.老板大腹便便。
• His eyes are bigger than his belly.他眼馋肚饱。

14 catering   

n. 给养

参考例句：

• Most of our work now involves catering for weddings. 我们现在的工作多半是承办婚宴。
• Who did the catering for your son's wedding? 你儿子的婚宴是由谁承办的？

15 oysters   

牡蛎( oyster的名词复数 )

参考例句：

• We don't have oysters tonight, but the crayfish are very good. 我们今晚没有牡蛎供应。但小龙虾是非常好。
• She carried a piping hot grill of oysters and bacon. 她端出一盘滚烫的烤牡蛎和咸肉。

16 seafood   

n.海产食品，海味，海鲜

参考例句：

• There's an excellent seafood restaurant near here.离这儿不远有家非常不错的海鲜馆。
• Shrimps are a popular type of seafood.小虾是比较普遍的一种海味。

17 remains   

n.剩余物，残留物；遗体，遗迹

参考例句：

• He ate the remains of food hungrily.他狼吞虎咽地吃剩余的食物。
• The remains of the meal were fed to the dog.残羹剩饭喂狗了。

18 minced   

v.切碎( mince的过去式和过去分词 )；剁碎；绞碎；用绞肉机绞（食物，尤指肉）

参考例句：

• He minced over to serve us. 他迈着碎步过来招待我们。
• A young fop minced up to George and introduced himself. 一个花花公子扭扭捏捏地走到乔治面前并作了自我介绍。 来自《简明英汉词典》

19 gastronomic   

adj.美食（烹饪）法的，烹任学的

参考例句：

• The gastronomic restaurant is a feature of the hotel. 美食餐厅是这家饭店的一个特色。 来自互联网
• The restaurant offers a special gastronomic menu. 这家餐馆备有一份特别的美食菜单。 来自互联网

20 exquisite   

adj.精美的；敏锐的；剧烈的，感觉强烈的

参考例句：

• I was admiring the exquisite workmanship in the mosaic.我当时正在欣赏镶嵌画的精致做工。
• I still remember the exquisite pleasure I experienced in Bali.我依然记得在巴厘岛所经历的那种剧烈的快感。

21 delicacies   

n.棘手( delicacy的名词复数 )；精致；精美的食物；周到

参考例句：

• Its flesh has exceptional delicacies. 它的肉异常鲜美。 来自《现代汉英综合大词典》
• After these delicacies, the trappers were ready for their feast. 在享用了这些美食之后，狩猎者开始其大餐。 来自英汉非文学 - 民俗

22 crab   

n.螃蟹，偏航，脾气乖戾的人，酸苹果；vi.捕蟹，偏航，发牢骚；vt.使偏航，发脾气

参考例句：

• I can't remember when I last had crab.我不记得上次吃蟹是什么时候了。
• The skin on my face felt as hard as a crab's back.我脸上的皮仿佛僵硬了，就象螃蟹的壳似的。

23 eel   

n.鳗鲡

参考例句：

• He used an eel spear to catch an eel.他用一只捕鳗叉捕鳗鱼。
• In Suzhou,there was a restaurant that specialized in eel noodles.苏州有一家饭馆，他们那里的招牌菜是鳗鱼面。

24 shrimp   

n.虾，小虾；矮小的人

参考例句：

• When the shrimp farm is built it will block the stream.一旦养虾场建起来，将会截断这条河流。
• When it comes to seafood,I like shrimp the best.说到海鲜，我最喜欢虾。

25 consultant   

n.顾问；会诊医师，专科医生

参考例句：

• He is a consultant on law affairs to the mayor.他是市长的一个法律顾问。
• Originally,Gar had agreed to come up as a consultant.原来，加尔只答应来充当我们的顾问。

26 baker   

n.面包师

参考例句：

• The baker bakes his bread in the bakery.面包师在面包房内烤面包。
• The baker frosted the cake with a mixture of sugar and whites of eggs.面包师在蛋糕上撒了一层白糖和蛋清的混合料。

27 jovial   

adj.快乐的，好交际的

参考例句：

• He seemed jovial,but his eyes avoided ours.他显得很高兴，但他的眼光却避开了我们的眼光。
• Grandma was plump and jovial.祖母身材圆胖，整天乐呵呵的。

28 rein   

n.疆绳，统治，支配；vt.以僵绳控制，统治

参考例句：

• The horse answered to the slightest pull on the rein.只要缰绳轻轻一拉,马就作出反应。
• He never drew rein for a moment till he reached the river.他一刻不停地一直跑到河边。

29 fermented   

v.（使）发酵( ferment的过去式和过去分词 )；（使）激动；骚动；骚扰

参考例句：

• When wine is fermented, it gives off gas. 酒发酵时发出气泡。 来自《简明英汉词典》
• His speeches fermented trouble among the workers. 他的演讲在工人中引起骚动。 来自辞典例句

30 rustic   

adj.乡村的，有乡村特色的；n.乡下人，乡巴佬

参考例句：

• It was nearly seven months of leisurely rustic living before Michael felt real boredom.这种悠闲的乡村生活过了差不多七个月之后,迈克尔开始感到烦闷。
• We hoped the fresh air and rustic atmosphere would help him adjust.我们希望新鲜的空气和乡村的氛围能帮他调整自己。

31 intriguing   

adj.有趣的；迷人的v.搞阴谋诡计(intrigue的现在分词)；激起…的好奇心

参考例句：

• These discoveries raise intriguing questions. 这些发现带来了非常有趣的问题。
• It all sounds very intriguing. 这些听起来都很有趣。 来自《简明英汉词典》

32 condiment   

n.调味品

参考例句：

• It has long been a precious condiment.它一直都是一种珍贵的调味料。
• Fish sauce is a traditional fermented condiment in coastal areas.鱼露是沿海地区的传统发酵调味品。

33 Oxford   

n.牛津（英国城市）

参考例句：

• At present he has become a Professor of Chemistry at Oxford.他现在已是牛津大学的化学教授了。
• This is where the road to Oxford joins the road to London.这是去牛津的路与去伦敦的路的汇合处。

34 ripples   

逐渐扩散的感觉( ripple的名词复数 )

参考例句：

• The moon danced on the ripples. 月亮在涟漪上舞动。
• The sea leaves ripples on the sand. 海水在沙滩上留下了波痕。

35 radically   

ad.根本地，本质地

参考例句：

• I think we may have to rethink our policies fairly radically. 我认为我们可能要对我们的政策进行根本的反思。
• The health service must be radically reformed. 公共医疗卫生服务必须进行彻底改革。

36 bass   

n.男低音(歌手)；低音乐器；低音大提琴

参考例句：

• He answered my question in a surprisingly deep bass.他用一种低得出奇的声音回答我的问题。
• The bass was to give a concert in the park.那位男低音歌唱家将在公园中举行音乐会。