新香水:沉香和裸香

 　　While New York, London, Milan and Paris have been hosting (or are about to host) the autumn/winter 2013 womenswear shows, fragrance¹ counters everywhere are unveiling their candidates for spring/summer. And while “summer” and “celebrity” have been the dominant² trends of the 200-plus perfume launches that happen annually³, this time two identifiable olfactory⁴ themes stand out: oud (a rich scent⁵ from the resin⁶ of the Agar tree) and nude⁷.

　　正当纽约、伦敦、米兰还有巴黎正热热闹闹地举行2013女装秋冬秀时，各地的香氛专柜也上架了各自的春夏新品。并且尽管每年新发布的两百余种香水都逃不开“夏天”、“名人”等等元素，但这一次，两种香氛主题更为醒目：沉香(oud，一种嗅觉丰富的琼脂气息)和裸香（nude）。

　　Nude is so soft and subtle that you have to be up close and personal to smell it; oud is rich, sensual and, while not quite in the 1980s “enters a room before you do” category, makes an obvious statement. What gives the trends weight is that they both have not only heritage – the clean scents⁸ of Asia and the heavy perfumes of Arabia – but a modern global market dimension too.

　　裸香非常轻柔细腻，你需要更近更私密的距离才能嗅到它；沉香则丰富、感性，尽管不像是上世纪80年代那种“香水味比人更先进屋”的风格，但依旧让人印象深刻。这两种趋势之所以势不可挡，除了历史悠久之外——清新的气息来自亚洲，而馥厚的气息则来自阿拉伯——同样也符合现代市场的需要。

　　“For 20 years, the trend has been for fruity, floral scents aimed at US and European women who prefer those toiletry-style fragrances⁹,” says Francis Kurkdjian, one of the world’s master perfumers. “But Arabia and Asia are where the luxury markets are now, so perfumers have to adapt accordingly.”

　　“在过去的20年中，对于偏爱化妆品风格的欧美市场的女性来说，最主流的是水果和花香。”世界香氛大师弗朗西斯?库尔吉安（Francis Kurkdjian）说道，“但是如今阿拉伯和亚洲已经成为了奢侈品的重要市场，因此香水也不得不做出相应的调整。”

　　Not that these scents are being created solely¹⁰ as a cash cow. “We’re saturated¹¹ in fruity florals and now want to smell things that are different,” says Trudi Loren, Estée Lauder’s vice-president for corporate¹² fragrance development. “Consumers are influenced by the aromas¹⁴ of places where they travel, and by the fragrances worn by women who visit our countries too, so they’re looking for something interesting but wearable.”

　　这些香氛的研发也不仅仅是为了被当作摇钱树。“我们一直沉浸在花果香气中，而现在想要闻到一些不一样的味道。”雅诗兰黛负责香氛研发部门的副总裁特鲁?罗兰（Trudi Loren）这么说道，“消费者会受到旅行目的地的当地气味的影响，同样，也会受到一位光顾过我们专柜的女士所使用的香水影响，于是，他们也会去寻找那些自己感兴趣的，且实用的香氛。”

　　Oud fragrances, with their intense, smoky woodiness, are becoming such a mainstay of modern perfumery that Kurkdjian is convinced they will eventually become a new fragrance category. “They are more than a passing trend,” he says. “Oud started out as something quite alien, outside the classic western fragrance families, but as our noses have become accustomed to it, we’ve fallen in love with the note.”

　　带有烟熏木材气息的、热情的沉香香水，正在成为现代香水的中流砥柱，库尔吉安坚信它最终能成为一个新的香水品种。“它们绝不是昙花一现。”他说，“沉香一开始闻起来很有异域风情，跟我们熟悉的西方世界的香氛不太一样，但是我们的鼻子很快就能适应它，然后我们会爱上这种味道。”

　　Perfect for the Gulf¹⁵ region, where women in traditional dress use fragrance as a way of expression, but in the past considered too overpowering for European sensibilities, oud has been modified by contemporary perfumers who blend it with softening¹⁶ floral notes, fruits and spices so there’s a familiarity within the intrigue¹⁷. Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud (￡190), for example, combines the ingredient with patchouli as well as cedarwood and saffron for seductive depth; while Jo Malone Velvet¹⁸ Rose and Oud Cologne Intense (￡95) has a sparkling quality thanks to bergamot and ginger¹⁹ lily.

　　对于海湾地区身着传统服饰的女性来说，沉香是她们表达自我最完美的方式之一，但是对于久经香水的欧洲女性来说，它还需要被改进得更为有现代感，加入使之变得柔和的花果和其他一些香料的味道，让人有种似曾相识之感。比如Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud (售价190英镑)，便在其加入了广藿香、雪松以及藏红花，使之更为性感；而Jo Malone Velvet Rose and Oud Cologne Intense (售价95英镑)则由于加入佛手柑和野姜花而显得与众不同。

　　Approaching oud as a unisex scent, Tom Ford²⁰ Private Blend Oud Wood (￡135), Aramis Perfume Calligraphy²¹ (￡105), and Dior La Collection Privée Oud Ispahan (￡125) all use more masculine notes, including lemon, cardamom, amber²² and vetiver.

　　为了让沉香更为中性，Tom Ford Private Blend Oud Wood (售价135英镑)、Aramis Perfume Calligraphy (售价105英镑)，还有Dior La Collection Privée Oud Ispahan (售价125英镑)都加入了其他更为阳刚的香氛，比如柠檬、小豆蔻、琥珀还有岩兰草。

　　At the opposite end of the scent spectrum²³, Asian-inspired nude fragrances are having a nascent²⁴ moment too. “The olfactory taste in the east is for fluid, transparent²⁵ scents that are not invasive,” says Lauder’s Loren. “Cultural etiquette²⁶ is not to intrude²⁷ on someone else’s space with a fragrance, but wear it to enhance the essence of clean skin.”

　　与之截然不同的亚洲风格的裸香香氛也同样正受到追捧。“东方嗅觉更偏好清雅流动的气息。”雅诗兰黛的罗兰说道，“他们的文化礼仪就是不要让自己的气味强行闯入别人的地盘，使用香水是为了提高皮肤的清爽感。”

　　Besides, in a climate that is persistently²⁸ hot and humid, a blend of light notes is essential. “In Asia, perfumers often use florals, but they are treated very differently so they have a sheer, airy quality,” says Loren.

　　此外，长期炎热和潮湿的气候，也使得清淡的味道成为必须。“在亚洲，香水通常采用花香，但不一样的是，这花香也非常清透。”罗兰说。

　　“For western tastes we can boost those notes so they still have that airy feel, but with a hint of warmth and sensuality for more impact.”

　　“对于西方消费者，我们同样可以推广这样的味道，他们会有轻盈之感，但还得加入更多温暖、性感的元素。”

　　With the addition of neroli and lily of the valley, Philosophy’s Living Grace (￡32) calls to mind slipping between freshly washed sheets, while Diptyque’s L’Eau du Trente-Quatre (from ￡60) takes the luminosity of bergamot and verbena and then spices it up with skin-hugging nutmeg and musk²⁹.

　　在加入了橙花和铃兰之后，Philosophy的Living Grace (售价32英镑)就像新洗过的床单一样让人放松，而Diptyque的L’Eau du Trente-Quatre (售价60英镑起)则是充分混合了佛手柑、马鞭草、肉豆蔻和麝香。

　　Honey and jasmine give warmth to Issey Miyake L’Eau d’Issey Absolue (from ￡35, available mid-February) and jasmine also forms the centrepiece of Nasomatto Nuda (￡128), which smells as seductive as it sounds. Finally, taking the scent a step further, Guerlain’s Elixirs³⁰ Charnels Eau de Lingerie (￡60, from Harrods) blends vanilla³¹, pink iris³² and sandalwood into a subtle aroma¹³, created specially³³ for spritzing over your finest underwear. (Really.)

　　蜂蜜和茉莉花为Issey Miyake L’Eau d’Issey Absolue (售价35英镑起)带来了暖意，而茉莉花也同样是Nasomatto Nuda (售价128英镑)的主力调香，使之闻起来就跟它的名字一样迷人。

　　For those who respond to both fragrance extremes, and don’t want to choose between the two, James Craven, perfume archivist at specialist perfumery Les Senteurs in London, has a prediction for the future (maybe even next season): the oud/nude explosion is going to be game-changing. “Some very clever perfumer will eventually bring the two together in a veil of oud that just dusts the skin,” he says. “It will be the perfect perfume.”

　　最后，让香气再进一步吧，Guerlain的Elixirs Charnels Eau de Lingerie (售价60英镑)混合香草、鸢尾花还有檀香营造出一种微妙的气息，是喷在你精美内衣上的绝好选择。（真的。） 对于那些这两种香水都爱，没办法做出选择的香水迷来说，伦敦专业香水店的专家詹姆斯?克雷文（James Craven）做出了一个预告（或许就是下一季的新品）：沉香/裸香的时代即将到来。“一些精明的香水制造商最终将会将两者合二为一。”他说，“那将是最完美的香水。”

1 fragrance   

n.芬芳，香味，香气

参考例句：

• The apple blossoms filled the air with their fragrance.苹果花使空气充满香味。
• The fragrance of lavender filled the room.房间里充满了薰衣草的香味。

2 dominant   

adj.支配的，统治的；占优势的；显性的；n.主因，要素，主要的人(或物)；显性基因

参考例句：

• The British were formerly dominant in India.英国人从前统治印度。
• She was a dominant figure in the French film industry.她在法国电影界是个举足轻重的人物。

3 annually   

adv.一年一次，每年

参考例句：

• Many migratory birds visit this lake annually.许多候鸟每年到这个湖上作短期逗留。
• They celebrate their wedding anniversary annually.他们每年庆祝一番结婚纪念日。

4 olfactory   

adj.嗅觉的

参考例句：

• He is to develop a sensor to substitute for the olfactory abilities of dogs.克罗克将研制一种传感器用以代替狗的嗅觉功能。
• Based on these findings, Keller suspects that each person has an olfactory blind spot.根据这些发现，凯勒推断，每个人都有一个嗅觉盲区。

5 scent   

n.气味，香味，香水，线索，嗅觉；v.嗅，发觉

参考例句：

• The air was filled with the scent of lilac.空气中弥漫着丁香花的芬芳。
• The flowers give off a heady scent at night.这些花晚上散发出醉人的芳香。

6 resin   

n.树脂，松香，树脂制品；vt.涂树脂

参考例句：

• This allyl type resin is a highly transparent, colourless material.这种烯丙基型的树脂是一种高度透明的、无色材料。
• This is referred to as a thixotropic property of the resin.这种特性叫做树脂的触变性。

7 nude   

adj.裸体的；n.裸体者，裸体艺术品

参考例句：

• It's a painting of the Duchess of Alba in the nude.这是一幅阿尔巴公爵夫人的裸体肖像画。
• She doesn't like nude swimming.她不喜欢裸泳。

8 scents   

n.香水( scent的名词复数 )；气味；（动物的）臭迹；（尤指狗的）嗅觉

参考例句：

• The air was fragrant with scents from the sea and the hills. 空气中荡漾着山和海的芬芳气息。
• The winds came down with scents of the grass and wild flowers. 微风送来阵阵青草和野花的香气。 来自《简明英汉词典》

9 fragrances   

n.芳香，香味( fragrance的名词复数 )；香水

参考例句：

• The bath oil comes in various fragrances. 这种沐浴油有不同的香味。
• This toilet soap lathers so nicely and has several fragrances. 这种香皂起泡很多，并且有好几种香味。 来自《现代汉英综合大词典》

10 solely   

adv.仅仅，唯一地

参考例句：

• Success should not be measured solely by educational achievement.成功与否不应只用学业成绩来衡量。
• The town depends almost solely on the tourist trade.这座城市几乎完全靠旅游业维持。

11 saturated   

a.饱和的，充满的

参考例句：

• The continuous rain had saturated the soil. 连绵不断的雨把土地淋了个透。
• a saturated solution of sodium chloride 氯化钠饱和溶液

12 corporate   

adj.共同的，全体的；公司的，企业的

参考例句：

• This is our corporate responsibility.这是我们共同的责任。
• His corporate's life will be as short as a rabbit's tail.他的公司的寿命是兔子尾巴长不了。

13 aroma   

n.香气，芬芳，芳香

参考例句：

• The whole house was filled with the aroma of coffee.满屋子都是咖啡的香味。
• The air was heavy with the aroma of the paddy fields.稻花飘香。

14 aromas   

n.芳香( aroma的名词复数 )；气味；风味；韵味

参考例句：

• Intoxicating earth aromas induced lassitude and ethereal calm. 泥土的醉人的芳香叫人懒洋洋的，感到一种远离尘世的宁静。 来自辞典例句
• Nose and elegant nose with attractive fruity, floral and citrus fruit aromas. 芳香：优雅、馥郁、迷人的柑橘属水果的果香及花的清香。 来自互联网

15 gulf   

n.海湾；深渊，鸿沟；分歧，隔阂

参考例句：

• The gulf between the two leaders cannot be bridged.两位领导人之间的鸿沟难以跨越。
• There is a gulf between the two cities.这两座城市间有个海湾。

16 softening   

变软，软化

参考例句：

• Her eyes, softening, caressed his face. 她的眼光变得很温柔了。它们不住地爱抚他的脸。 来自汉英文学 - 家（1-26） - 家（1-26）
• He might think my brain was softening or something of the kind. 他也许会觉得我婆婆妈妈的，已经成了个软心肠的人了。

17 intrigue   

vt.激起兴趣，迷住；vi.耍阴谋；n.阴谋，密谋

参考例句：

• Court officials will intrigue against the royal family.法院官员将密谋反对皇室。
• The royal palace was filled with intrigue.皇宫中充满了勾心斗角。

18 velvet   

n.丝绒，天鹅绒；adj.丝绒制的，柔软的

参考例句：

• This material feels like velvet.这料子摸起来像丝绒。
• The new settlers wore the finest silk and velvet clothing.新来的移民穿着最华丽的丝绸和天鹅绒衣服。

19 ginger   

n.姜，精力，淡赤黄色；adj.淡赤黄色的；vt.使活泼，使有生气

参考例句：

• There is no ginger in the young man.这个年轻人没有精神。
• Ginger shall be hot in the mouth.生姜吃到嘴里总是辣的。

20 Ford   

n.浅滩，水浅可涉处；v.涉水，涉过

参考例句：

• They were guarding the bridge,so we forded the river.他们驻守在那座桥上，所以我们只能涉水过河。
• If you decide to ford a stream,be extremely careful.如果已决定要涉过小溪，必须极度小心。

21 calligraphy   

n.书法

参考例句：

• At the calligraphy competition,people asked him to write a few characters.书法比赛会上，人们请他留字。
• His calligraphy is vigorous and forceful.他的书法苍劲有力。

22 amber   

n.琥珀；琥珀色；adj.琥珀制的

参考例句：

• Would you like an amber necklace for your birthday?你过生日想要一条琥珀项链吗？
• This is a piece of little amber stones.这是一块小小的琥珀化石。

23 spectrum   

n.谱，光谱，频谱；范围，幅度，系列

参考例句：

• This is a kind of atomic spectrum.这是一种原子光谱。
• We have known much of the constitution of the solar spectrum.关于太阳光谱的构成，我们已了解不少。

24 nascent   

adj.初生的，发生中的

参考例句：

• That slim book showed the Chinese intelligentsia and the nascent working class.那本小册子讲述了中国的知识界和新兴的工人阶级。
• Despite a nascent democracy movement,there's little traction for direct suffrage.尽管有过一次新生的民主运动，但几乎不会带来直接选举。

25 transparent   

adj.明显的，无疑的；透明的

参考例句：

• The water is so transparent that we can see the fishes swimming.水清澈透明，可以看到鱼儿游来游去。
• The window glass is transparent.窗玻璃是透明的。

26 etiquette   

n.礼仪，礼节；规矩

参考例句：

• The rules of etiquette are not so strict nowadays.如今的礼仪规则已不那么严格了。
• According to etiquette,you should stand up to meet a guest.按照礼节你应该站起来接待客人。

27 intrude   

vi.闯入；侵入；打扰，侵扰

参考例句：

• I do not want to intrude if you are busy.如果你忙我就不打扰你了。
• I don't want to intrude on your meeting.我不想打扰你们的会议。

28 persistently   

ad.坚持地；固执地

参考例句：

• He persistently asserted his right to a share in the heritage. 他始终声称他有分享那笔遗产的权利。
• She persistently asserted her opinions. 她果断地说出了自己的意见。

29 musk   

n.麝香, 能发出麝香的各种各样的植物，香猫

参考例句：

• Musk is used for perfume and stimulant.麝香可以用作香料和兴奋剂。
• She scented her clothes with musk.她用麝香使衣服充满了香味。

30 elixirs   

n.炼金药，长生不老药( elixir的名词复数 )；酏剂

参考例句：

• Elixirs are concentrated alcohol extractions that are similar to both teas and tinctures. 长生不老药是浓缩的酒精萃取物，类似于茶和酊剂。 来自互联网

31 vanilla   

n.香子兰，香草

参考例句：

• He used to love milk flavoured with vanilla.他过去常爱喝带香草味的牛奶。
• I added a dollop of vanilla ice-cream to the pie.我在馅饼里加了一块香草冰激凌。

32 iris   

n.虹膜，彩虹

参考例句：

• The opening of the iris is called the pupil.虹膜的开口处叫做瞳孔。
• This incredible human eye,complete with retina and iris,can be found in the Maldives.又是在马尔代夫，有这样一只难以置信的眼睛，连视网膜和虹膜都刻画齐全了。

33 specially   

adv.特定地；特殊地；明确地

参考例句：

• They are specially packaged so that they stack easily.它们经过特别包装以便于堆放。
• The machine was designed specially for demolishing old buildings.这种机器是专为拆毁旧楼房而设计的。