Boka looked at Jack and grinned. "Ready?" heasked.
"I'm ready!" said Annie. "Where do we get oursurfboards?""Down there," said Kama. She pointed to a rockypath that led to the beach.
"Let's go," said Annie.
Annie, Boka, and Kama started down the path. Jackfollowed, moving slowly and carefully.
When he stepped onto the beach, Jack slipped offhis shoes. He dug his toes into the dry, warm sand. Itfelt as soft as silk.
"Actually, I wouldn't mind just taking a walk onthe beach," he said to the others.
But no one seemed to hear. They had all walkedover to a row of wooden surfboards propped againstthe rocks.
Boka picked out a long board and lugged it over toJack. "For you," he said.
Jack took the board and looked up at it. It was astall as his dad.
"Isn't this a little big for me?" he asked.
Boka shook his head. He chose a board for Annie.
Then he and Kama grabbed a couple for themselves.
Jack took a deep breath. "I'd like to read a littleabout surfing first," he said. He put his board downand pulled out the research book.
"What is that?" asked Kama.
"It's a book," said Jack "It tells you about things. ""How does it talk?" said Kama.
"It doesn't talk," said Annie. "You read it." Kamalooked confused.
"Jack, forget the book now," Annie said. "Let's justdo what Boka and Kama tell us." She headed for theocean, lugging her board.
Jack sighed and put the book away. He left his packin the sand, picked up his board, and followed theothers.
They all stopped at the edge of the water. "First weneed to get past the breaking waves," said Kama.
"Then we'll show you what to do next."Together they waded into the cool, shallow water.
The waves don't seem all that big, Jack thoughthopefully.
But as he waded deeper into the ocean, thebreaking waves began to look bigger and bigger.
When the first wave hit him, Jack leaned against it,lifting his board. He nearly fell over.
Kama, Boka, and Annie moved farther out into theocean. Jack watched as a wave loomed over them.
They all threw their boards over the wave and doveinto it.
Jack struggled forward. The next time a big wavecame toward him, he threw his board over it. Holdinghis glasses tightly, he ducked under.
When Jack stood up again, he Wiped the waterfrom his eyes and glasses his surf board Was Closeby. He grabbed it before another wave cameJack kept fighting his Way forward By the time hegot past all the breakers, the water Was up to hischest.
"We'll paddle out to catch a big wave!" said Boka.
Jack frowned "But...""Don't worry, Jack," said Kama. "It Will be fun"Boka and Kama pulled themselves onto theirboards. They lay on their bellies and began PaddlingWith their hands out to sea.
Jack and Annie lay down on their boards, too.
Paddling Over the gentle waves Jack relaxed Now,this Was something he could do all day.
"When I say go, paddle fast back toward the shore!"said Kama.
"When do we stand up?" said Annie.
"When you start toward the shore!" said Boka.
"Stand up with one foot forward. Stretch out yourarms to keep your balance!""But don't try to stand up the very first time!" saidKama. "Just ride your board on your belly!""I see one coming now!" said Boka.
"Wait, wait!" said Jack. Everything was happeningtoo fast. He had questions.
"Go!" Kama shouted.
Jack saw a big wave rolling toward them. Before heknew it, Boka, Kama, and Annie were paddlingquickly toward the shore. Jack paddled like crazy tokeep up.
Suddenly the wave lifted him and swept himforward! Jack zoomed toward the shore with amazingspeed. Out of the corner of his eye, he saw boka andKama and Annie! all standing up.
Jack wanted to be like them. In a flash, he went upon his knees. He put his left foot forward and stoodup! For one second he felt like a soaring bird--then helost his balance!
Jack fell into the water, grabbing his glasses just intime. The wave crashed down on top of him! Waterfilled his mouth and went up his nose. His board andhis lei were swept away.
Jack twisted and turned in the churning water.
When his head bobbed up above the water, he chokedand coughed.
Another big wave crashed down on him, and hewent under again. When he came up, he plungedforward, desperately trying to get to shore.
Again and again, Jack was thrown down andslammed by breaking waves. But each time, he got upand hurled himself closer to shore.
Finally, Jack dragged himself out of the ocean.
Feeling bruised and battered, he fell onto the sand. |