Tea is then symbolic of earthly purity, requiring the most fastidious cleanliness in its preparation,from picking,frying and preserving to its final infusion and drinking, easily upset or spoiled by the slightest contamination of oily hands or oily cups.Consequently, its enjoyment is appropriate in an atmosphere where all ostentation or suggestion of luxury is banished from one's eyes and one's thoughts. After all, one enjoys sing-song girls with wine and not with tea, and when sing-song girls are fit to drink tea with, they are already in the class that Chinese poets and scholars favor. Su Tungp'o once compared tea to a sweet maiden, but a later critic, T'ien Yiheng, author of Chuch'uan Hsiaop，in immediately qualified it by adding that tea could be compared, if it must be compared to women at all，only to the Fairy Maku, and that,as for beauties with peach-colored faces and willow waists, they should be shut up in curtained beds, and not be allowed to contaminate the rocks and springs.For the same author says, One drinks tea to forget the world's noise；it is not for those who eat rich food and dress in silk pyjamas.

 

因此，茶是凡间纯洁的象征，在采制烹煮的手续中，都须十分清洁。采摘烘焙，烹煮取饮之时，手上或壶中略有油腻不洁，便会使它丧失美味。所以也只有在眼前和心中毫无富丽繁华的景象和念头时，方能真正地享受它。和妓女作乐时，当 然用酒而不用茶。但一个妓女如有了品茶的资格，则她便可以跻于诗人文士所欢迎的妙人儿之列了。苏东坡曾以美女喻茶， 但后来，另一个持论家，煮泉小品的作者田艺恒即补充说， 如果定要以茶去拟女人，则唯有麻姑仙子可做比拟。至于必若桃脸柳腰，宜亟屏之销金慢中，无俗我泉石。又说："啜茶忘喧，谓非膏梁纨绮可语。

 

It must be remembered that, according to Ch'alu,the essence of the enjoyment of tea lies in appreciation of its color, fragrance and flavor, and the principles of preparation are refinement, dryness and cleanliness.

 

据《茶录》所说:其旨归于色香味，其道归于精燥洁。