2020年经济学人 法国大厨米歇尔·鲁克斯(1)（在线收听）

Michel Roux, transformer with his brother of the British restaurant scene, died on March 11th, aged 78

大厨米歇尔·鲁克斯于3月11日去世，享年78岁。他和哥哥艾伯特是英国餐厅的变革者。

The sight was so awful that Michel Roux, then only in his 20s and new to London, quickly turned his face away. Through the window of the Lyons Corner House near Marble Arch he could see people eating British peas. The peas were fluorescent, big as quails' eggs. And there was worse: on each side-plate a piece of sliced bread, limp as a handkerchief and bleached frighteningly white.

当时的情景是如此糟糕，以至于刚到伦敦不久、才20多岁的米歇尔·鲁克斯很快就把脸转开了。透过大理石拱门附近里昂角屋餐厅的窗户，他看到人们在吃英国豌豆。豌豆表面非常亮，像鹌鹑蛋那么大。还有更糟的：每个小盘里都有一片切片面包，像手帕一样软塌塌的，白得吓人。

He realised then that he had come to a land that was still in the culinary Dark Ages. And it was all Albert's fault. His older brother had persuaded him to come. He had been working as a chef in London for eight years, and now had plans. Those eventually led to the founding of two restaurants, Le Gavroche in Chelsea and the Waterside Inn at Bray in Berkshire, which transformed fine dining and the whole food scene in Britain. Each venue earned three Michelin stars, something the country had never experienced before. But as Michel stood aghast in the street that day, he was torn between revolutionary fervour and despair.

他意识到自己来到了一个仍处于烹饪黑暗时代的国度。这都是艾伯特的错。是他的哥哥劝他来伦敦的。他在伦敦当厨师已经八年了，现在已经有了计划。这最终促成了两家餐厅的成立，一家是切尔西的Le Gavroche餐厅，另一家是伯克郡布雷的Waterside Inn餐厅，它改变了英国的高级餐饮和整个美食界。每家餐厅都获得了米其林三星，这是这个国家以前从未有过的事情。但当米歇尔那天站在街上惊呆时，他是在革命热情和绝望之间左右为难。

Despite the fact that Albert was dark, dumpy and short, and he was tall, fair and much handsomer, he had always looked up to him, so to speak. If Albert had been a fireman, he would have been a fireman too. As it was, Albert went young to be apprenticed to a pastry-chef, so at 14 he did the same. There at last he surpassed his brother, becoming so good at pastries and desserts that for many years he held the title of Best Pastrycook in France.

尽管艾伯特又黑又矮又胖，而他又高又白又帅，但是可以说，他一直都很尊敬艾伯特。如果艾伯特是一名消防员，他也会成为一名消防员。现实是，阿尔伯特很年轻就去做糕点师的学徒，所以在14岁时，米歇尔也做了同样的事情。在那里，米歇尔终于超越了他的哥哥。他非常擅长糕点和甜点，多年来，他一直是法国最好的面点师。