2020年经济学人 法国大厨米歇尔·鲁克斯(2)（在线收听）

No one could make an omelette soufflé Rothschild (succulent with apricots, perfumed with Cointreau, his tour de force when he was Cécile de Rothschild's chef for nearly six years), the way he could. (Albert was more of a sauce man.) They bickered all the time, doing a tv cookery show later in which they flirted with filleting each other, but they made a good team; so in 1967 they bought their 90-seater restaurant in Lower Sloane Street and shook up London together.

没有人能像米歇尔那样做洛希尔蛋奶酥(搭配着多汁的杏子，散发着君度甜酒的香味，这是他在塞西尔·德·洛希尔餐厅做厨师时的拿手好戏)。(艾伯特则更喜欢用酱。)他们总是争吵，后来在一个电视烹饪节目中，他们互相挑逗着切鱼片，但是他们是一个很好的团队；于是，1967年，他们买下了位于下斯隆街的90座餐厅，并一起震撼了伦敦。

What they offered was classic French-restaurant cuisine, short menus cooked fresh à la minute; not, as was the custom even in high-class British restaurants then, dishes reheated from frozen or cooked far in advance. Every ingredient was fresh too, often sourced from French suppliers whom they knew as friends. (Later, they ordered in almost everything from Rungis market in Paris.)

他们提供的是经典的法式餐厅美食，菜单简短，新鲜烹饪；这就是不同之处，按照当时的习俗，即使是在高级的英国餐馆里，菜肴也是加热冷冻食物，或者提前很久就做好了。每一种原料也都是新鲜的，通常来自法国的供应商朋友。（后来，他们几乎所有东西都从巴黎的朗格斯市场订购。）

As the business expanded, first with the Waterside Inn, then with two smaller restaurants in London, then with more down-market eateries that plain folk could almost afford, the same philosophy was applied to all of them, and a host of eager young British chefs were trained, some with Roux Scholarships, to run them. All this made Michel enormously proud, yet it was hardly what he had expected. He had wavered about being a chef. With his looks and his deep voice—in his kitchen, he never needed a microphone—he might have made an opera singer. But love of food ran deep.

随着商业扩张，首先是开了Waterside Inn餐厅，然后是在伦敦开的两家小一些的餐厅，然后开了多家一般人可以负担得起的低档餐厅，所有的餐厅都应用了同样的理念。他们也培训了许多年轻的英国厨师来经营这些餐厅，有些厨师还获得了卢克斯奖学金。所有这些都让米歇尔非常自豪，但是这并不是他之前预料的情况。米歇尔曾犹疑过要不要做厨师。凭借他的这般长相和低沉的声音-在厨房里，他从来都不需要麦克风-他可能成为一个歌剧演唱家。但是他对食物的爱是非常深的。