2020年经济学人 法国大厨米歇尔·鲁克斯(4)（在线收听）

There, as the Waterside Inn reinforced its reputation (and kept its stars) with quenelles de brochet and his own sublime tarte Tatin, he could make a public virtue of being classic and old-fashioned. The dining rooms were padded deep with chintz. His wine cellar was exclusively French, for he loved his bordeaux and burgundies too well to stray—going to Bordeaux every year to taste the en primeur vintage, and cultivating his own vineyard at his villa near Saint-Tropez.

在那里，凭借名菜可内乐和他自己的上等苹果派，水畔客栈声誉得到增强(并保持了餐厅的星级)，他使古典和守旧成为一种公共美德。餐厅里铺了厚厚的印花棉布。米歇尔的酒窖完全是法式的，因为他太爱波尔多和勃艮第葡萄酒了，所以他每年都去波尔多品尝期酒，在圣特罗佩附近的别墅里种植自己的葡萄园。

Nouvelle cuisine passed him by: on his menus butter featured everywhere, irreplaceable and indispensable. And bad manners never ceased to infuriate him. The new generation of celebrity chefs struck him as sadly insecure, even unbalanced, using dreadful words and treating their underlings like dirt. He himself was kind to his chefs, and his kitchen was happy. He did not need to blanch their heads in boiling water to make sure he kept them. Had Britain really changed, then, since his arrival? He sometimes wondered.

新式烹饪与他擦肩而过：在他的菜单上，黄油无处不在，无可替代，不可或缺。不礼貌的举止总是让他生气。米歇尔觉得新一代的名厨可悲地缺乏安全感，甚至精神错乱，说着可怕的话，把下属不当人看。他自己对他的厨师很友好，厨房里是快乐的气氛。他不需要把他们的头泡在沸水里来确保他们不离开。米歇尔有时候就好奇，自从他来了之后，英国真的变了吗？

By 2020 London could boast three three-star Michelin restaurants—but Paris had ten. Britain now offered cuisines from all over the world, but too many new dishes were merely visual, picnic stuff that lacked depth. The best of British cooking was still the afternoon tea, with treacle tart and sponge cake and scones with jam and cream, which he and Albert both loved greedily and which had persuaded them, in the beginning, that there was hope to be found somewhere. But those peas, alas, were not yet right. They had to be fresh-shelled, to start with; cooked in butter, never water; and then, preferably, cut one by one in half before they could ever grace a plate.

到2020年，伦敦有三家米其林三星餐厅，但是巴黎有十家。英国现在有世界各地的美食，但是太多都仅仅停留在视觉上，是些缺乏深度的野餐。英式烹饪中最好的仍然是下午茶，有糖浆馅饼、松糕和果酱奶油烤饼，这是他和阿尔贝都非常喜爱的东西，一开始，他们相信在某个地方能找到它们。但是，难过的是，那些豌豆还是不太对劲。首先，要选择外壳新鲜的豌豆；用黄油烹调，不要用水；然后，最好是在他们给盘子增色之前，把它们一个一个地切成两半。