新闻周刊:牛仔裤的真实成本(1)（在线收听）

From the Culture Section

来源于《文化》版块

The Real Cost of Your Blue Jeans

你的蓝色牛仔裤的真正成本

By Dana Thomas

作者：达娜·托马斯

The biggest fashion trend in recent years is "fast fashion"—the mass production of trendy, inexpensive clothing with lightning-quick turnaround. This is a hugely wasteful global, environmental and human rights disaster, according to bestselling journalist Dana Thomas in her new book Fashionopolis.

近年来最大的时尚潮流是“快时尚”，即大量生产时尚、廉价、转瞬即逝的服装。畅销书记者达纳·托马斯在她的新书《时尚都市》中写道，这是一场巨大的全球性、环境和人权灾难。

Making the industry's 80 billion garments per year requires huge amounts of water and toxic chemicals. It employs every sixth person on Earth—most in dangerous conditions for very little money. Fast fashion also produces mountains of clothes that go unsold or are discarded and end up in garbage dumps and landfills.

制衣业每年生产800亿件服装需要大量的水和有毒化学物质。它雇佣了地球上的六分之一的员工——其中大多数处于危险的环境中，薪水却很少。快时尚还会产生大量未售出或被丢弃的衣服，这些衣服最终会被扔进垃圾场和垃圾填埋场。

There is no single solution for these problems of ecological damage, exploitation and waste, but there is hope for the future. Consumers, retailers and innovators are pursuing a variety of options for sustainability, such as buying secondhand clothes; renting outfits; recycling clothes into new, reusable fibers; 3D printing clothes on demand; biofabrication; reshoring; and using organic and natural fibers. And just buying less.

这些生态破坏、开发和浪费的问题没有单一的解决办法，但未来是有希望的。消费者、零售商和革新者正在寻求各种可持续性的选择，比如购买二手衣服;租赁公司;把衣服变成新的、可重复使用的纤维; 按需3D打印衣服;生物制造;重新支撑;使用有机和天然纤维。减少购买。

Perhaps the worst offenders in terms of environmental and human damage are blue jeans. In this excerpt from Fashionopolis, Thomas explores some of what ails the world's most popular garment of all—and one process that could help cure some of the ills plaguing their production.

也许对环境和人类危害最大的是牛仔裤。在这段节选自Fashionopolis的文章中，托马斯探讨了世界上最流行的服装的一些问题，以及一种可以帮助解决困扰其生产的一些问题的工艺。

You are probably wearing jeans as you read this. If you're not, chances are you wore them yesterday. Or you will tomorrow. At any given moment, anthropologists believe, half the world's population is sporting jeans. Five billion pairs are produced annually. The average American owns seven—one for each day of the week—and buys four new pairs every year. "I wish I had invented blue jeans," the French couturier Yves Saint Laurent confessed. "They have expression, modesty, sex appeal, simplicity—all I hope for my clothes."

读这篇文章的时候，你可能正穿着牛仔裤。如果你没有，很可能你昨天就穿了。否则你明天就会穿。人类学家认为，在任何时候，世界上一半的人口都在穿牛仔裤。每年生产50亿条。美国人平均每天拥有7 – 1条，每年购买4双。“我希望我发明了蓝色牛仔裤，”法国时装设计师伊夫·圣洛朗承认了这一点。“她们有表情、端庄、性感、简单——所有这些都是我对衣服的期望。”