纪录片《中国美食之旅》 第36期:成都篇(17)（在线收听）

As well as pork and flower pepper,

除了猪肉和花椒

there's another locally produced ingredient

还有一道当地的原料

that Sichuan has made

因四川而为人所知

famous and defines the tastes of the region.

如今成为了四川饮食的代表

In the few days we've been here,

我们在四川的短短几天里

everyone we've met has relied on it.

每一个我们遇到的人都与它密不可分

If chilli and Sichuan pepper are the heart of the Sichuan food,

如果说辣椒和花椒是四川美食的核心

then chilli bean paste is the soul.

那么辣豆瓣酱就是它的灵魂

This is incredible.

真是不可思议

I've never seen anything like this in my life.

我一生中从未看过这样的景象

I feel like I'm walking into a cemetery or a monastery

我觉得我仿佛步入了一所公墓 或是一家修道院

because it's so Zen.

因为这里太有禅意了

It's a bit spooky and eerie.

有一丝幽然诡谲的感觉

At this factory in Pixian, just outside Chengdu,

这家工厂位于郫县 就在成都郊外

they've been making the best chilli bean paste in the world

他们已经生产了300年

for over 300 years.

世界上最好的辣豆瓣酱了

Two years, this one has been aged for?

这已经做了两年了吗

They have three years and five years.

他们有三年的 也有五年的

The paste is actually

事实上 豆瓣酱的制作十分简单

very simply made from just three ingredients

只需要三种原料

broad beans, red chillies and salt.

蚕豆 红辣椒和盐

It's then left to ferment in these earthenware crocks

然后 它们被放置在这些陶罐中发酵

for up to five years.

要五年之久

That is really superb.

实在是太棒了

It's beautiful. It's sour, spicy, beany,

太美妙了 酸辣适宜 瓣子酥脆

just really intense. Yes.

味道很足,没错

It's funny, I would never say this is chilli bean sauce.

真有意思 我永远不会想到这是辣豆瓣酱

Absolutely, it's never this colour anyway,

是啊 我从没见过这种颜色的

so that means that they haven't been aged as long.

这意味着它们发酵的时间还不够长

The quality, Ken, that we've been cooking with is sub-standard,

老谭 看来我们在家里做饭用到的那些

what we get back home.

都是次等品

The secret of this paste

这种豆瓣酱的秘密

lies in the relentlessly damp Sichuan climate.

在于四川持续的潮湿气候

The humidity in the air helps the years of fermentation,

空气中的湿度促进了成年累月的发酵

creating a chilli bean paste unlike any other.

从而制成迥异于别处的豆瓣酱

It's a little bit like wine. You know, when we do wine,

这和葡萄酒有点像 当我们酿葡萄酒的时候

we're talking about where the grapes come from,

总考虑葡萄产于哪里

the terroir, as the French say,

就如法国人口中的 风土

and I think it's very much this, because this is the heart

我觉得这一点和这很像

of what Sichuan cooking is about.

因为风土也是四川饮食的关键所在

This kind of damp, foggy climate

就是它那潮湿 多雾的气候

that makes this kind of moody chilli bean sauce

制造出了这种难以捉摸的辣豆瓣酱

that's the heart of this type of cooking.

也构成了这种饮食的核心