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11.

The next morning Pa and I went to a beautiful lodge on a snaky river. KwaZulu-Natal. I knewabout this place, where Redcoats and Zulu warriors clashed in the summer of 1879. I’d heard allthe stories, legends, and I’d seen the movie Zulu countless times. But now I was going to becomea bona fide expert, Pa said. He’d arranged for us to sit on camp chairs before a log fire and listen toa world-famous historian, David Rattray, re-create the battle.

It might’ve been the first lecture to which I ever really paid attention.

The men who fought on this ground, Mr. Rattray said, were heroes. On both sides—heroes.

The Zulus were ferocious, utter wizards with a short spear known as the iklwa, which was namedfor the sucking sound it made when pulled from a victim’s chest. And yet a mere 150 Britishsoldiers on hand managed to hold off four thousand Zulus, and that improbable stand, calledRorke’s Drift, instantly became part of British mythology. Eleven soldiers were awarded theVictoria Cross, the greatest number ever won in one battle by a single regiment. Another twosoldiers, who held off the Zulus one day before Rorke’s Drift, became the first to win the VictoriaCross posthumously.

Posthumously, Pa?

Er, yes.

What does it mean?

After they, you know.

What?

Died, darling boy.

Though a source of pride for many Britons, Rorke’s Drift was the outgrowth of imperialism,colonialism, nationalism—in short, theft. Great Britain was trespassing, invading a sovereignnation and trying to steal it, meaning the precious blood of Britain’s finest lads had been wastedthat day, in the eyes of some, among them Mr. Rattray. He didn’t glide over such difficult facts.

When necessary, he condemned the British roundly. (Locals called him the White Zulu.) But I wastoo young: I heard him and also didn’t hear. Maybe I’d seen the movie Zulu too many times,maybe I’d waged too many pretend battles with my toy Redcoats. I had a view of battle, ofBritain, which didn’t permit new facts. So I zoomed in on the bits about manly courage, andBritish power, and when I should’ve been horrified, I was inspired.

On the way home I told myself the whole trip had been a smash. Not only a terrific adventure,but a bonding experience with Pa. Surely life would now be altogether different.