VOA常速英语2016--让马修告诉你 时尚就是用来颠覆的（在线收听）

让马修告诉你 时尚就是用来颠覆的

Twenty-six-year-old Matthew Rugamba got his start in fashion trying to modernize thetraditional “kitenge” loincloth common across East Africa. At his House of Tayo in Kigali, theRwanda designer has expanded into African outfits and accessories with a contemporarytwist. Rugamba said he is inspired by the looks of the 1960s and the era of Africanindependence, especially the styles of former Congolese Prime Minister Patrice Lumumba andthe U.S. civil rights activist Malcolm X. If you look at the 1960s, that time the independencemovement was picking up. That was the perfect blend of West and African style becauseyou’d see Patrice Lumumba wear the bow ties and suits, but you’d see him wearing a leopardskin of some sort of print and I really - that sort of aesthetic really caught my eye, and I usedthat as a foundation for this brand. As Rugamba’s designs find bigger audiences abroad, he isdetermined to keep manufacturing local, producing all of his accessories through a Kigali-basedwomen’s cooperative where seamstresses say they have a voice in design. When he firstproposed the designs to us, we had trouble adapting and then we got used to it. He shares hisideas with us and accepts our ideas - eventually it became good. The unique designs thatHouse of Tayo brings will now go hand in hand with the enthusiasm people have for these newproducts, beginning with the loincloths. Recently, fewer people are buying imported,secondhand products. Most of Rugamba’s high end designs are too expensive for much of thelocal market. As he looks to expand from East Africa to North America, he says his No. 1 goalis to make House of Tayo products more affordable for everyone.

在东非，基坦卡纹样的缠腰带已经十分常见了，而26岁时尚设计师马修职业生涯的第一步就是将这种缠腰带设计地更时尚。在马修位于卢旺达首都基加利的家中，可以看到他给这种传统的缠腰带搭配了带有现代设计感的配饰。

马修说，他是受到60年代衣服和非洲独立时期衣服的启发，尤其是前刚果总理帕特里斯的穿衣风格以及美国民权活动家迈尔肯。可以回顾一下60年代的穿衣风格，那时正是独立运动风起云涌之时。那时的时尚观是西部和非洲时尚的完美融合，因为你既能看到帕特里斯打着蝴蝶结领带、身着西装，也能看到他身着带有豹纹的衣服。而这种风格真的很吸引我，也是我发掘新时尚新品牌的源泉。随着马修的品牌远销国外，他下定决心要将生产工厂设在卢旺达，并通过设在基加利的妇女合作社来生产配饰，因为这里的裁缝表示，他们对设计也应该有话语权。起初他向我们提出这样的设计时，我们感觉很难适应和接受。但他与我们分享他的想法，并接受我们的意见--最终的效果竟是这样好。马修缠腰带创意设计风靡的同时，也将引发人们对这系列新产品的热情。缠腰带是个好的开始。最近，越来越少的人会去买进口的二手产品。马修的设计属高端系列，所以大多数产品对于卢旺达本地的市场来说还是太贵。他表示，要向将市场从东非拓展到北美，首要目标就是让产品更平价。