英国卫报:奈斯派索的咖啡革命是如何被粉碎的(8)（在线收听）

The years that followed Clooney’s first ad were Nespresso’s happiest.

克鲁尼首支广告播出后的几年是奈斯派索最开心的几年。

In 2006, its revenues passed 500m pounds. By 2010 they had reached 3bn Swiss francs (2.5bn pounds),

2006年，其收入超过5亿英镑。到2010年，他们的收入达到了30亿瑞士法郎（25亿英镑）。

and the capsule market was growing five times faster than the overall coffee market.

胶囊咖啡市场的增长速度是整体咖啡市场的五倍。

In Switzerland, Nespresso took business from roast and ground; in China, from tea; in Britain, from instant.

在瑞士，奈斯派索靠烘培和研磨咖啡获利，在中国靠茶品获利；在英国则靠速溶咖啡获利。

Nespresso reigned supreme over an entire domain of coffee that it had effectively created from scratch.

奈斯派索的胶囊咖啡机在它从零开始创造的整个咖啡产业中独占鳌头。

As Nespresso kept growing, its pursuit of global homogeneity rubbed up against idiosyncratic national or regional coffee cultures.

随着奈斯派索不断扩张，它追求全球同质性和国家或本土咖啡文化的特质性出现冲突。

“If you are somewhere it is hot all the time, and you’ve just had a spicy meal,

“如果你在一个一直都很热的地方，你刚刚吃了一顿很辣的饭，

you don’t want a coffee that lasts very long, so you have a shot,” said Karsten Ranitzsch, Nespresso’s head of coffee,

你不想喝太久的咖啡，所以你可以来一杯尝尝，”奈斯派索咖啡公司的咖啡总监卡斯滕·拉妮斯说道。

as we stood beneath a row of enormous silos in a state-of-the-art production centre in the Swiss municipality of Romont.

当时我们位于瑞士罗蒙市的一个最先进的生产中心，站在一排巨大的筒仓下。

“But in Scandinavia it has another function: to warm you up.”

但在斯堪的纳维亚半岛，它还有另一个功能：让你暖和起来。”

The company’s market research suggests that sometimes consumers do not know what they actually want.

该公司的市场调查显示，有时消费者并不知道他们真正想要的是什么。

Culturally, Germans like to believe they like strong coffees, but if you give them a blind taste test,

文化上，德国人喜欢相信他们喜欢浓咖啡，但如果你给他们一个盲品测试，

they prefer milder drinks, and often buy the coffee that isn’t the one they prefer.

他们喜欢喝更淡的咖啡，经常买自己不喜欢的咖啡。

Nespresso’s factories are gleaming temples to globalisation.

奈斯派索的工厂是全球化进程中闪闪发光的神殿。

Beans are shipped “green” from all over the world to the facilities in Romont, Orbe and Avenches.

“原生态”的咖啡豆从世界各地被运到位于罗蒙，奥尔布和阿旺什的工厂。

The beans are roasted, ground and put into capsules, between 5 and 6 grams of coffee and 1 gram of aluminium per capsule.

这些咖啡豆经过烘培、研磨后被放进胶囊中，每粒胶囊含有5至6克咖啡和1克铝。

On its long journey to the back of your throat, Nespresso coffee is checked for quality more than 40 times,

在它到达你喉咙后部的漫长旅途前，奈斯派索咖啡的质量

using colour spectrometers and a battery of tasters in white coats.

会通过彩色分光计和一组身着白大褂的品尝师检查四十多次。

In some cases, there is DNA analysis. Ranitzsch told me that many of the tasters are trained in France,

在一些情况下，还会做DNA分析。拉妮斯告诉我，很多品尝师都是在法国接受的培训，

a nation where “palate” is taken seriously as a qualification.

而法国正是一个认真对待“味觉”的国家。

After the capsules have been packaged, they are sorted by robots and sent by train to Antwerp.

咖啡胶囊包装完成后，由机器人进行分类，然后经火车运到安特卫普市。

From there, they are shipped to countries all over the world.

从那里，它们被运往世界各地。