从护肤开始 重新定义男子气概

　　David Yi had an early introduction to beauty regimes.

　　戴维?李(David Yi)很早就接触到了美容之道。

　　“Growing up in a Korean household, my mother would give us facials,” said Mr. Yi, the founder¹ of Very Good Light, a website about men and grooming² that goes online this week. “She’d put all these creams on me, and I dreaded³ it. But I started to realize it was indicative of how important it was to present yourself to the world.”

　　“我是在一个韩国家庭长大，从小母亲就会给我们做面部护理，”本周上线的男士美容护理网站Very Good Light的创始人戴维?李说。“她会给我涂各种面霜，我当时很讨厌。但我慢慢意识到，这说明了向世界展示自己是多么重要。”

　　His parents, who moved to Colorado from Korea in 1983, were also vigilant⁴ about his daily application of sunscreen, he added with a laugh, threatening punishment if he skipped it.

　　戴维?李的父母于1983年从韩国移居到了美国的卡罗拉多州。他们很注意让他每日坚持涂防晒霜，还威胁说如果他不涂就会受到惩罚，戴维?李笑着说。

　　Mr. Yi, 29, sat at a table at Dimes⁵ Deli in Chinatown, eating a gluten-free peanut butter cookie and drinking coconut⁶ water mixed with chlorophyll. He wore generously ripped black pants, a black T-shirt and a tattoo⁷ in script on his arm that read “elevate.”

　　现年29岁的李坐在唐人街的Dimes Deli餐馆里，正在吃无麸质花生酱饼干，喝着添加叶绿素的椰子汁。他穿了一条有很多破洞的黑裤子和一件黑色T恤，胳膊上有“elevate”（升华）字样的纹身。

　　After stints⁸ as a writer and editor for The Daily News, WWD and Mashable, Mr. Yi decided⁹ to lend his expertise¹⁰ to guys who didn’t grow up with an education in personal-care products. “Men are just supposed to figure it out,” he said. With Very Good Light, he hopes “to redefine masculinity and to redefine men’s beauty.”

　　戴维?李此前在纽约《每日新闻》报(The Daily News)、《女装日报》(WWD)和新闻博客网站Mashable做过撰稿人和编辑，后来他决定拿自己的专业知识为不曾在小时候接触过个人护理知识的男性服务。“人们觉得男人应该自己去搞明白这些东西，”他说。他希望可以通过Very Good Ligh“重新定义男子气概和男性之美。”

　　The timing¹¹ may be right.

　　这个时机或许是对的。

　　“A lot of guys resort to asking questions on Reddit, because they don’t know where else to go,” said Emily Weiss, the founder and chief executive of Glossier¹², a site that, along with Man Repeller¹³ and Refinery29, served as inspiration for Very Good Light. “The younger generation of men are embracing beauty and skin care in a more open-minded and forward-thinking way.”

　　“很多小伙子会跑到Reddit上提问求助，因为他们不知道还可以上哪儿问，”Glossier创始人兼首席执行官艾米莉?韦斯(Emily Weiss)说。这个网站连同Man Repelle和Refinery29都是Very Good Light的灵感来源。“更年轻的一代男性正在以一种更开放和更超前的方式接受美容与护肤理念。”

　　Chris Salgardo, the president of Kiehl’s and author of “Manmade: The Essential Skincare & Grooming Reference For Every Man,” said: “Now is absolutely a great time for a site fully¹⁴ dedicated¹⁵ to men’s grooming and skin care. Over the past year and a half, there’s been a growing conversation in our stores, and on my own social media, as men reach out with questions beyond basic skin care or shaving to learn more about anti-aging and ingredients.”

　　契尔氏(Kiehl)总裁、《肤在人为：男性基础护肤与个人护理指南》(The Essential Skincare & Grooming Reference For Every Man)一书的作者克里斯?萨尔加多(Chris Salgardo)说：“现在绝对是创建一家完全专注于男性个人护理与护肤网站的好时机。在过去的一年半里，在我们的店铺和我个人的社交媒体上，此类话题都越来越多，男士们提出的问题已经超出了基础护肤或剃须的范畴，而想了解更多有关抗衰老和成分的知识。”

　　Mr. Yi envisions his start-up capturing the spirit of skin care and grooming. “Big brands and media outlets¹⁶ are too afraid to push the envelope,” he said. “They are stuck in 2014 still talking about beard oil when no one has beards anymore.”

　　李设想自己的创业公司会捕捉到护肤与个人护理的精髓。“大品牌和媒体机构太害怕，不敢挑战极限，”他说。“它们停留在2014年，还在谈论须油，而现在已经没人留大胡子了。”

　　In one column on the site, influential¹⁷ men — the Diesel¹⁸ creative director Nicola Formichetti, editors and sports stars — talk about their skin-care regimen. (LeBron James is Mr. Yi’s dream interview.) There are stories on how to properly cover a hickey, an introduction to BB creams, and something titled “You’re Actually Parting Your Hair All Wrong.”

　　在网站的一个专栏中，他们会邀请有影响力的男性——迪赛(Diesel)服装设计公司创意总监尼古拉?福尔米凯蒂(Nicola Formichetti)、以及多名编辑和体育明星——谈论自己的护肤之道。（勒布朗?詹姆斯[LeBron James]是李最想采访的对象。）也有文章教你如何正确地掩盖吻痕，介绍BB霜，还会有这样的文章标题：“你分头发的方式实际上完全是错的”。

　　There are also features that take a broader approach to personal care, culture and what it is to be a man.

　　其中也会有一些专题文章更宽泛地探讨个人护理、文化，以及何为男人。

　　Six American Sikh men are interviewed about turbans, with photographs by Mike Tessier and styling by Christopher Kim, a former Carine Roitfeld assistant.

　　有六位美国锡克教徒就缠头巾的问题接受了该网站的采访，文中配有迈克?特西尔(Mike Tessier)拍摄的照片，造型师则是曾担任卡琳?洛菲德(Carine Roitfeld)助理的克里斯托弗?金(Christopher Kim)。

　　There is an essay called “Why I’m Not Afraid to Be Called Feminine,” about masculinity in black culture, and; a story about a biracial man who came to understand his mother through Korean skin care.

　　有一篇名为《为什么我不怕被人说女性化》(Why I’m Not Afraid to Be Called Feminine)的文章谈论了黑人文化中的男子气；另一篇则讲述了一名混血男子如何通过了解韩国护肤知识，渐渐理解了他的母亲。

　　Eventually there will be sex and dating. “We’ll talk about kissing and seduction, but it will be very PG-13,” Mr. Yi said.

　　最终还会有关于性和约会的文章。“我们会讨论如何接吻和诱惑对方，不过内容会是非常限制级的，”李说道。

　　Another eventuality is advertising¹⁹. Right now, Very Good Light is a labor²⁰ of love. “It’s not funded at all,” Mr. Yi said. “I have called in a lot of favors.”

　　另一个最终会出现的东西是广告。目前Very Good Light的工作是没有回报的。“完全没有资金投入，”李说。“我欠下了不少人情。”

　　The target market is Generation Z. “Sixteen to 26 is our sweet spot,” he said. “They are the first generation to be completely born on digital and the web. They’re savvy²¹ with social media and its risks.”

　　它的目标市场是Z世代。“16到26岁的男性是我们的理想受众，”他说。“他们是第一代完全成长于数字和网络时代的人，非常了解社交媒体及其风险。”

　　He considers this audience fearless and sexually fluid. His inspirations are the rapper Young Thug and the actor Jaden Smith. “They are so secure with themselves and their manhood that they will wear, quote-unquote, women’s blouses and skirts.” David Bowie “was very Very Good Light,” he added.

　　他认为这部分受众无所畏惧，在性别认知上也比较灵活。给他启发的是说唱歌手“青年暴徒”(Young Thug)和男演员杰登?史密斯(Jaden Smith)。“他们自我感觉很好，不担心自己的男子气受损，会穿所谓的女性衬衫或裙子。”大卫?鲍伊(David Bowie)“就非常Very Good Light，”他接着说。

　　Mr. Yi spoke²² of his own struggle to come into his version of manhood. “My masculinity was so different from the Western ideal,” he said. “Pampering yourself was seen as so effeminate. That’s what girls did.”

　　戴维?李也谈到了他在形成自己的男子气观念中遭遇的困难。“我所认为的男子气与西方的理念非常不同，”他说。“精心呵护自己当时被看作是非常女性化的，是女孩才会做的事。”

　　Korean pop (or K-pop) stars helped. “Looking at them, they wore guyliner, they had smoky eyes, they wore foundation and BB creams,” he said. His love affair with K-pop was such that his parents let him stay with relatives in Seoul while he was in high school so that he could try his hand at pop stardom. After a few months, he was signed but realized he yearned²³ for the life of an American teenager: getting a driver’s license²⁴ and going to the prom.

　　在这方面，韩国流行歌星帮了他的忙。“看看他们，他们涂男士眼影，化烟熏妆，也会用粉底霜和BB霜，”他说。他对韩国流行歌星的喜爱如此强烈，以致他的父母让他在上高中时留在首尔和亲戚一起住，以便他能尝试当流行歌星。几个月后，他签了约，但他意识到自己其实渴望过美国青少年的生活：拿驾照，参加舞会。

　　Still, he has kept one foot in Korea, which is now known worldwide for its multistep skin care. “I do seven steps: cleanser, toner, a mist, a serum²⁵, an essence, a moisturizer and sunscreen,” Mr. Yi said. “If I’m meeting someone special, I’ll do a cushion or concealer, maybe a highlighter.”

　　不过，他依然保留了与韩国的关系。这个国家如今以多步骤护肤为全世界所知。“我有七个步骤：洁面乳、化妆水、喷雾、精华乳、精华液、润肤霜和防晒霜，”戴维?李说。“如果要见什么特别的人，还会上气垫粉或遮瑕膏，或许再打一个提亮。”

1 Founder   

n.创始者，缔造者

参考例句：

• He was extolled as the founder of their Florentine school.他被称颂为佛罗伦萨画派的鼻祖。
• According to the old tradition,Romulus was the founder of Rome.按照古老的传说，罗穆卢斯是古罗马的建国者。

2 grooming   

n. 修饰, 美容，（动物）梳理毛发

参考例句：

• You should always pay attention to personal grooming. 你应随时注意个人仪容。
• We watched two apes grooming each other. 我们看两只猩猩在互相理毛。

3 dreaded   

adj.令人畏惧的；害怕的v.害怕，恐惧，担心( dread的过去式和过去分词)

参考例句：

• The dreaded moment had finally arrived. 可怕的时刻终于来到了。
• He dreaded having to spend Christmas in hospital. 他害怕非得在医院过圣诞节不可。 来自《用法词典》

4 vigilant   

adj.警觉的，警戒的，警惕的

参考例句：

• He has to learn how to remain vigilant through these long nights.他得学会如何在这漫长的黑夜里保持警觉。
• The dog kept a vigilant guard over the house.这只狗警醒地守护着这所房屋。

5 dimes   

n.（美国、加拿大的）10分铸币( dime的名词复数 )

参考例句：

• Pennies, nickles, dimes and quarters are United States coins. 1分铜币、5分镍币、1角银币和2角5分银币是美国硬币。 来自《简明英汉词典》
• In 1965 the mint stopped putting silver in dimes. 1965年，铸币厂停止向10分硬币中加入银的成分。 来自辞典例句

6 coconut   

n.椰子

参考例句：

• The husk of this coconut is particularly strong.椰子的外壳很明显非常坚固。
• The falling coconut gave him a terrific bang on the head.那只掉下的椰子砰地击中他的脑袋。

7 tattoo   

n.纹身，(皮肤上的)刺花纹；vt.刺花纹于

参考例句：

• I've decided to get my tattoo removed.我已经决定去掉我身上的纹身。
• He had a tattoo on the back of his hand.他手背上刺有花纹。

8 stints   

n.定额工作( stint的名词复数 )；定量；限额；慷慨地做某事

参考例句：

• He stints himself in [of] sleep. 他节制睡眠。 来自辞典例句
• She never stints herself of money to buy books for her children. 她从不吝惜掏钱让子女们买书。 来自互联网

9 decided   

adj.决定了的，坚决的；明显的，明确的

参考例句：

• This gave them a decided advantage over their opponents.这使他们比对手具有明显的优势。
• There is a decided difference between British and Chinese way of greeting.英国人和中国人打招呼的方式有很明显的区别。

10 expertise   

n.专门知识(或技能等)，专长

参考例句：

• We were amazed at his expertise on the ski slopes.他斜坡滑雪的技能使我们赞叹不已。
• You really have the technical expertise in a new breakthrough.让你真正在专业技术上有一个全新的突破。

11 timing   

n.时间安排，时间选择

参考例句：

• The timing of the meeting is not convenient.会议的时间安排不合适。
• The timing of our statement is very opportune.我们发表声明选择的时机很恰当。

12 glossier   

光滑的( glossy的比较级 )； 虚有其表的； 浮华的

参考例句：

• This does not lead to stronger, glossier, faster growing hair. 这不会令头发更加坚韧、更有光泽、长得更快。

13 repeller   

n. 反射极(弹回装置, 栏板)

参考例句：

14 fully   

adv.完全地，全部地，彻底地；充分地

参考例句：

• The doctor asked me to breathe in,then to breathe out fully.医生让我先吸气，然后全部呼出。
• They soon became fully integrated into the local community.他们很快就完全融入了当地人的圈子。

15 dedicated   

adj.一心一意的；献身的；热诚的

参考例句：

• He dedicated his life to the cause of education.他献身于教育事业。
• His whole energies are dedicated to improve the design.他的全部精力都放在改进这项设计上了。

16 outlets   

n.出口( outlet的名词复数 )；经销店；插座；廉价经销店

参考例句：

• The dumping of foreign cotton blocked outlets for locally grown cotton. 外国棉花的倾销阻滞了当地生产的棉花的销路。 来自《简明英汉词典》
• They must find outlets for their products. 他们必须为自己的产品寻找出路。 来自《现代汉英综合大词典》

17 influential   

adj.有影响的，有权势的

参考例句：

• He always tries to get in with the most influential people.他总是试图巴结最有影响的人物。
• He is a very influential man in the government.他在政府中是个很有影响的人物。

18 diesel   

n.柴油发动机，内燃机

参考例句：

• We experimented with diesel engines to drive the pumps.我们试着用柴油机来带动水泵。
• My tractor operates on diesel oil.我的那台拖拉机用柴油开动。

19 advertising   

n.广告业；广告活动 a.广告的；广告业务的

参考例句：

• Can you give me any advice on getting into advertising? 你能指点我如何涉足广告业吗?
• The advertising campaign is aimed primarily at young people. 这个广告宣传运动主要是针对年轻人的。

20 labor   

n.劳动，努力，工作，劳工；分娩；vi.劳动，努力，苦干；vt.详细分析；麻烦

参考例句：

• We are never late in satisfying him for his labor.我们从不延误付给他劳动报酬。
• He was completely spent after two weeks of hard labor.艰苦劳动两周后，他已经疲惫不堪了。

21 savvy   

v.知道，了解；n.理解能力，机智，悟性；adj.有见识的，懂实际知识的，通情达理的

参考例句：

• She was a pretty savvy woman.她是个见过世面的漂亮女人。
• Where's your savvy?你的常识到哪里去了？

22 spoke   

n.（车轮的）辐条；轮辐；破坏某人的计划；阻挠某人的行动 v.讲，谈（speak的过去式）；说；演说；从某种观点来说

参考例句：

• They sourced the spoke nuts from our company.他们的轮辐螺帽是从我们公司获得的。
• The spokes of a wheel are the bars that connect the outer ring to the centre.辐条是轮子上连接外圈与中心的条棒。

23 yearned   

渴望，切盼，向往( yearn的过去式和过去分词 )

参考例句：

• The people yearned for peace. 人民渴望和平。
• She yearned to go back to the south. 她渴望回到南方去。

24 license   

n.执照，许可证，特许；v.许可，特许

参考例句：

• The foreign guest has a license on the person.这个外国客人随身携带执照。
• The driver was arrested for having false license plates on his car.司机由于使用假车牌而被捕。

25 serum   

n.浆液，血清，乳浆

参考例句：

• The serum is available to the general public.一般公众均可获得血清。
• Untreated serum contains a set of 11 proteins called complement.未经处理的血清含有一组蛋白质，共11种，称为补体。