2023年经济学人 冰淇淋不需要创新

 

    Culture

    文艺版块

    World in a dish

    盘中世界

    Get to the pint¹

    来桶冰淇淋

    When it comes to ice cream, the instinct to innovate² is misguided.

    对于冰淇淋，创新的本能被误导了。

    Does it make more sense to transform a bottle of ketchup³ into a handbag or a flavour of ice cream?

    把一瓶番茄酱变成手提包，或者变成冰淇淋的一种口味，哪一个更合理一点？

    To Anya Hindmarch, a British fashion designer, that is a false dichotomy.

    对于英国时装设计师安雅·希德马奇来说，这是一种错误的二分法。

    She has produced a sequinned bag based on a bottle of Heinz’s finest and an ice cream boasting “the unmistakable taste of sun-ripened tomatoes”.

    她制作了一款亮片手提包，外形和亨氏番茄酱的瓶子酷似，还制作了一款冰激凌，号称尝起来“绝对是被阳光晒熟的西红柿的味道”。

    (At 3.50 pounds, or 4.53 dollars, a scoop⁴, the ice cream is marginally more affordable⁵ than the 1,195-pound tote.)(冰淇淋每球3.50英磅，约合4.53美元，比1195英镑的手提包略微能让人买得起一点。)Those left cold by the frozen ketchup at the couturier’s Ice Cream Project in London can plump for a refreshing⁶ pea sorbet or an ice cream featuring “mellow cheddar cheese with the ‘chunky, crunchy, bite of Branston’”, a chutney that has appeared in soggy British sandwiches since 1922.

    那些对这位女设计师在伦敦提供的冷冻番茄酱冰淇淋不敢兴趣的人，可以选择吃一块清爽的豌豆雪糕，或者有“醇厚的切达奶酪配上‘大块酥脆布兰斯顿酸辣酱’”的冰淇淋，这种酸辣椒自1922年以来都是出现在湿哒哒的英国三明治中。

    The more avant-garde flavours taste unpleasantly accurate: the Branston-pickle option has a vinegary tang that no one really wants in an ice cream.

    这种更前卫的口味准确得令人不快：布兰斯顿泡菜味的冰淇淋确实有醋的味道，没有人想在冰淇淋里尝到这个味道。

    Far more palatable⁷ are the ones based on Coco Pops, a chocolate-flavoured cereal, and lemon curd⁸.

    另两种好吃得多的是家乐氏可可麦片口味（一种巧克力口味的麦片）和柠檬凝乳口味。

    Ms Hindmarch is not alone in experimenting with unusual flavours.

    希德马奇女士并不是唯一一个尝试不寻常口味的人。

    Heston Blumenthal, a British chef, has long been known for his bacon-and-egg ice cream.

    英国厨师赫斯顿·布鲁门撒尔一直以其培根鸡蛋冰淇淋闻名。

    The Alchemist, a two-star Michelin restaurant in Copenhagen, serves pig-blood ice cream (the blood replaces eggs as an emulsifier).

    位于哥本哈根的米其林二星级餐厅“炼金术士”提供猪血冰淇淋(用猪血替代鸡蛋作为乳化剂)。

    Van Leeuwen, an American ice-cream company, has flavoured its products with mac and cheese, ranch⁹ dressing¹⁰ and pizza.

    美国冰淇淋公司Van Leeuwen用芝士通心粉、牧场沙拉酱和披萨为其产品调味。

    Nor are such experiments all that new.

    这样的实验也不是什么新事。

    An ice-cream shop in 18th-century London called The Pineapple was serving Parmesan ice cream.

    18世纪伦敦一家名为“菠萝”的冰激凌店提供帕尔玛干酪冰淇淋。

    The urge to innovate seems to be insatiable.

    对创新的渴望似乎无法满足。

    This may suggest that ice-cream makers¹¹ need to keep churning out ever-weirder flavours to persuade people to keep slurping¹².

    这可能表明，冰淇淋制造商需要一直生产出更奇怪的口味，才能说服人们继续嗦冰淇淋。

    Yet the charm of ice cream seems to be more fundamental.

    然而，冰淇淋的魅力似乎更深刻。

    It has been made around the world, in places with vastly different culinary styles and histories, underlining the universality of its delightfulness¹³.

    世界各地都制作冰淇淋，烹饪风格和历史截然不同的地方也做冰淇淋，这突显了它令人愉悦的普世性。

    From Turkish dondurma to Syrian booza, Italian gelato to Iranian faloodeh, Filipino sorbetes to Indian kulfi, Japanese kakigori, Afghan sheeryakh and Indonesian es puter, some iteration of the dessert is made and loved everywhere.

    从土耳其冰淇淋到叙利亚的布扎，从意大利冰激凌到伊朗的法路德，从菲律宾冰糕到印度牛奶冰淇淋、日本刨冰、阿富汗冷牛奶和印度尼西亚的冰淇淋，这种甜点的一些衍生版本在世界各地被制作，且广受喜爱。

    Vanilla¹⁴, the classic option—and a derisive¹⁵ synonym¹⁶ for boring—is often touted¹⁷ as having universal appeal, writes Rachel Herz in “The Scent¹⁸ of Desire”.

    瑞秋·赫兹在《欲望的气味》一书中写道，经典的香草口味--也是带有嘲讽意味的“无聊”的同义词--经常被吹捧为无人不爱。

    That, she explains, is because vanilla is one of the volatile¹⁹ flavour compounds present in breastmilk, as well as some formulas.

    她解释说，这是因为香草是在母乳和一些配方奶粉中存在的挥发性风味化合物之一。

    The pleasure of ice cream is indeed childish.

    吃冰激凌的乐趣确实是童稚的。

    The chimes of an ice-cream truck send a ripple²⁰ of delight through even the iciest heart.

    即使是最冷若冰霜的心，听到冰淇淋小车的铃声，也会泛起喜悦的涟漪。

    Childish is a term usually used pejoratively²¹, to describe things that should be put away at the age of maturity²².

    幼稚是一个通常含有贬义的词，用来描述那些在成熟的年龄段应该被收起来的东西。

    Perhaps that explains the drive to make ice cream ever more sophisticated.

    也许这就解释了为什么要让冰淇淋变得更加精致。

    Haagen-Dazs was among the first ice-cream companies to market the product to adults.

    哈根达斯是首批向成年人推销冰淇淋的公司之一。

    But the best adult desserts are not that far removed from those enjoyed by children.

    但最佳的成人甜点与小孩子喜欢的甜点并没有太大的区别。

    And the joys of childhood are profound.

    而且童年的快乐是深刻的。

    They win out against innovation, however sophisticated the marketing²³.

    这种快乐战胜了创新，无论有多么精巧的营销方式。

    People may come for the Branston-pickle ice cream, but they stay for the Coco Pops.

    人们可能会来尝一尝布兰斯顿泡菜冰淇淋，但他们一直吃的还是可可麦片口味。

1 pint   

n.品脱

参考例句：

• I'll have a pint of beer and a packet of crisps, please.我要一品脱啤酒和一袋炸马铃薯片。
• In the old days you could get a pint of beer for a shilling.从前，花一先令就可以买到一品脱啤酒。

2 innovate   

v.革新，变革，创始

参考例句：

• We must innovate in order to make progress.我们必须改革以便取得进步。
• It is necessary to innovate and develop military theories.创新和发展军事理论是必要的。

3 ketchup   

n.蕃茄酱，蕃茄沙司

参考例句：

• There's a spot of ketchup on the tablecloth.桌布上有一点番茄酱的渍斑。
• Could I have some ketchup and napkins,please?请给我一些番茄酱和纸手巾？

4 scoop   

n.铲子，舀取，独家新闻；v.汲取，舀取，抢先登出

参考例句：

• In the morning he must get his boy to scoop it out.早上一定得叫佣人把它剜出来。
• Uh,one scoop of coffee and one scoop of chocolate for me.我要一勺咖啡的和一勺巧克力的。

5 affordable   

adj.支付得起的，不太昂贵的

参考例句：

• The rent for the four-roomed house is affordable.四居室房屋的房租付得起。
• There are few affordable apartments in big cities.在大城市中没有几所公寓是便宜的。

6 refreshing   

adj.使精神振作的，使人清爽的，使人喜欢的

参考例句：

• I find it'so refreshing to work with young people in this department.我发现和这一部门的青年一起工作令人精神振奋。
• The water was cold and wonderfully refreshing.水很涼，特别解乏提神。

7 palatable   

adj.可口的，美味的；惬意的

参考例句：

• The truth is not always very palatable.事实真相并非尽如人意。
• This wine is palatable and not very expensive.这种酒味道不错，价钱也不算贵。

8 curd   

n.凝乳；凝乳状物

参考例句：

• I'd like to add some pepper to the bean curd.我想在豆腐里加一点辣椒粉。
• The next one is bean curd with crab roe.下一个是蟹黄豆腐。

9 ranch   

n.大牧场，大农场

参考例句：

• He went to work on a ranch.他去一个大农场干活。
• The ranch is in the middle of a large plateau.该牧场位于一个辽阔高原的中部。

10 dressing   

n.(食物)调料；包扎伤口的用品，敷料

参考例句：

• Don't spend such a lot of time in dressing yourself.别花那么多时间来打扮自己。
• The children enjoy dressing up in mother's old clothes.孩子们喜欢穿上妈妈旧时的衣服玩。

11 makers   

n.制造者，制造商（maker的复数形式）

参考例句：

• The makers of the product assured us that there had been no sacrifice of quality. 这一产品的制造商向我们保证说他们没有牺牲质量。
• The makers are about to launch out a new product. 制造商们马上要生产一种新产品。 来自《简明英汉词典》

12 slurping   

v.啜食( slurp的现在分词 )

参考例句：

• He was slurping his tea. 他正咂着嘴喝茶。
• Although the downturn has not stopped consumers slurping ice-cream, it has affected the bottom line. 尽管经济低迷没有阻止消费者吃冰淇淋，但却影响了净利润。 来自互联网

13 delightfulness   

n.delightful（令人高兴的，使人愉快的，给人快乐的，讨人喜欢的）的变形

参考例句：

14 vanilla   

n.香子兰，香草

参考例句：

• He used to love milk flavoured with vanilla.他过去常爱喝带香草味的牛奶。
• I added a dollop of vanilla ice-cream to the pie.我在馅饼里加了一块香草冰激凌。

15 derisive   

adj.嘲弄的

参考例句：

• A storm of derisive applause broke out.一阵暴风雨般的哄笑声轰然响起。
• They flushed,however,when she burst into a shout of derisive laughter.然而，当地大声嘲笑起来的时候，她们的脸不禁涨红了。

16 synonym   

n.同义词，换喻词

参考例句：

• Zhuge Liang is a synonym for wisdom in folklore.诸葛亮在民间传说中成了智慧的代名词。
• The term 'industrial democracy' is often used as a synonym for worker participation. “工业民主”这个词常被用作“工人参与”的同义词。

17 touted   

v.兜售( tout的过去式和过去分词 )；招揽；侦查；探听赛马情报

参考例句：

• She's being touted as the next leader of the party. 她被吹捧为该党的下一任领导人。
• People said that he touted for his mother and sister. 据说，他给母亲和姐姐拉生意。 来自辞典例句

18 scent   

n.气味，香味，香水，线索，嗅觉；v.嗅，发觉

参考例句：

• The air was filled with the scent of lilac.空气中弥漫着丁香花的芬芳。
• The flowers give off a heady scent at night.这些花晚上散发出醉人的芳香。

19 volatile   

adj.反复无常的，挥发性的，稍纵即逝的，脾气火爆的；n.挥发性物质

参考例句：

• With the markets being so volatile,investments are at great risk.由于市场那么变化不定，投资冒着很大的风险。
• His character was weak and volatile.他这个人意志薄弱，喜怒无常。

20 ripple   

n.涟波，涟漪，波纹，粗钢梳；vt.使...起涟漪，使起波纹； vi.呈波浪状，起伏前进

参考例句：

• The pebble made a ripple on the surface of the lake.石子在湖面上激起一个涟漪。
• The small ripple split upon the beach.小小的涟漪卷来，碎在沙滩上。

21 pejoratively   

adv.轻蔑地

参考例句：

• Put pejoratively, they are stupider. 贬损一些，就是说他们脑子笨。 来自互联网
• I am not using the word pejoratively. 我不会用这个带有轻蔑意义的词儿的。 来自互联网

22 maturity   

n.成熟；完成；(支票、债券等)到期

参考例句：

• These plants ought to reach maturity after five years.这些植物五年后就该长成了。
• This is the period at which the body attains maturity.这是身体发育成熟的时期。

23 marketing   

n.行销，在市场的买卖，买东西

参考例句：

• They are developing marketing network.他们正在发展销售网络。
• He often goes marketing.他经常去市场做生意。