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纽约产业孵化项目扶助新生时装业

Many see young designers as the lifeblood of the fashion industry. The city of New York is hoping to maintain its billing as a top fashion capital of the world by encouraging young designers through a program of fashion incubators.

很多人把年轻的设计师看作时装行业的新鲜血液。美国纽约市希望保持世界顶尖时装都市的称号，方法是用扶助新产业的孵化项目鼓励青年设计师。

On one floor of a non-descript building in New York, there are 10 small designer labels from all over the United States. These fashion creators, selected from more than 100 applicants¹, are hoping their designs will become the next big thing.

在纽约一座不起眼的建筑的一楼，设置着来自美国各地的10个小设计师的标签。这些时尚创造者是从100多个申请人当中选出来的。他们希望自己的设计能一举成名。

For two years, the New York City Economic Development Corporation provides them with considerable support, like bargain rental² space.

两年来，新纽约市经济发展公司向他们提供相当大的支持，比如廉价的店面租金。

Daniel Vosovic is one of the designers.

沃索维奇就是其中一位设计师。

“It could be legal help, it could be I want to launch my own online store. It could be I am having production issues," he said. "And they team you up with mentors³ with the industry to help guide for advice, but no one owns part of our company. There’s no cash involved, there’s no investments. It’s just support."

他说： “他们提供的可能是法律帮助，也可能是启动网上商店，还可能是解决生产问题。他们为你请来业内有经验的人，帮你出谋划策，可是产业还是你自己的。这不涉及现金，不提供投资，只是支持而已。”

Vosovic, who was a finalist in Season 2 of the television show Project Runway, has a following.

沃索维奇入围电视节目项目起跑线的决赛。他有自己的粉丝群。

He’s been developing a celebrity⁴ base. This past year his customers included Mila Kunis, Emma Stone and Elizabeth McGovern. But, to get to the next major level, becoming the celebrity designer, takes more than inspiration. He knows it takes good advice and help from mentors like Malcolm Carfrae of Calvin Klein and April Uchitel, formerly⁵ with Diane von Furstenberg.

沃索维奇在争取向名人销售产品。过去一年他的顾客包括名演员Mila Kunis，名模Emma Stone和名演员Elizabeth McGovern。但是，要更上层楼，成为名人时装设计师，需要的不仅是热情。沃索维奇明白，他需要像Calvin Klein的卡夫莱这样的人指教，也需要Diane von Furstenberg的尤奇特尔这样的人指路。

“I’m a small label and there’s only so much I can support. It’s really, it’s important for the city to understand labels like us," he said. "We need their help before we can grow to become the Ralph Laurens, the Donna Karans and become those powerhouse designers."

沃索维奇说：“我的名头很小。我的支持也不大。纽约需要知道我们这种人，这真的很重要。我们需要他们的帮助。才能成为Ralph Laurens和 Donna Karans这样的出名设计师。”

“I think that any entrepreneur will tell you that it’s about having people who’ve had success in their own business and, you know, you have to remember that these are businesses that are comprised of just a few individuals, so having people who’ve really been there and done that, when it comes to starting and growing businesses, is an invaluable⁶ type of resource to be able to offer them," said Eric Johnson, who directs the Fashion Incubator program for New York City.

约翰森是纽约市时装产业孵化项目的主管。他说： “我认为，任何企业都需要在本行业成功的人，你必须牢记，企业是由人组成的。都需要真正有经验的人。开办企业，发展企业，需要给这些人发展的宝贵资源。”

Vosovic does all of his manufacturing in New York. It gives him greater control and allows him to personally oversee⁷ most steps of production. He also believes in a long-term approach to business planning.

沃索维奇的所有制造过程都在纽约。这使他能更好的控制它，亲自监督生产的大部分阶段。他还相信要以长远眼光进行商业计划。

"One collection is not going to make a career," he said. "You will slide down if the clothes aren’t great. If you ship late, you’re going to burn bridges. So to me, success is longevity⁸. It’s loyalty⁹ and personal fulfillment."

他说：“一套设计不能吃一辈子。只要你的时装不是最好，就会下滑。你交货晚了，人家就不跟你做生意了。对我来说，成功必须能长期维持。它需要顾客和店家互相忠诚，它也是个人的成就。”

Vosovic does have a growing worldwide Internet customer base and he is seen in boutiques throughout the United States. His label is growing and much credit, he says, belongs to the fashion incubator program.

沃索维奇有一个不断扩大的全球因特网顾客群。美国各地的精品店里都有他的作品。他的名气在增长，他说，他的声誉来自时装产业孵化项目。