PBS高端访谈:时尚界也存在着性别问题

 　　RACHEL TUTERA: My gender¹ identity is really based in both my experiences as a woman– and also it's just deeply rooted in the f– the fact that I'm masculine…

　　IVETTE FELICIANO: Rachel Tutera says it wasn't until she started wearing boy's clothes as a pre-teen, that she started to feel like the most authentic² version of herself. Yet the 30-year-old says shopping for clothes in the men's department left her feeling insecure and self-conscious. Nothing ever fit her proportions. So she was resigned to thinking that's just the way it was.

　　RACHEL TUTERA: I got used to wearing clothes that hid me. I thought I would just end up being someone who would prefer to be overlooked, or not worth sort of a second glance.

　　RACHEL TUTERA: "Typically you show a little bit of cuff³ …"

　　IVETTE FELICIANO: After years of frustration⁴ shopping off the rack, Tutera decided⁵ to purchase her first tailored men's suit…and she says the way she felt when she tried it on changed her life.

　　RACHEL TUTERA: Having something custom-made for my body basically reintroduced me to my body and I have felt, like, incredibly visible in a way that's not just causing people to take a second look at me, but I think people see me in a way that may actually be aligned⁶ with how I see myself. And that has been the most, like, powerful, mind-blowing thing.

　　IVETTE FELICIANO: The experience made Tutera want to pass that feeling on to others. So she approached the New York based made-to-order-men's suit company, "Bindle and Keep" convincing the owner that he was overlooking an under-served market…Not only masculine women, but also transgender men and other gender non-conforming people who want well-fitting, men's suits. She soon became the company's LGBTQ liaison⁷, serving hundreds of people all over the country who sometimes spend up to 1,500 dollars for their custom made suit.

　　RACHEL TUTERA: This is not just a need that is being recognized in progressive cities.

　　IVETTE FELICIANO: Has it been emotional for any of your clients?

　　RACHEL TUTERA: Yes it has been emotional for sure. Shopping or wearing clothes seems like a really mundane⁸ thing. But actually it's, like, incredibly meaningful and incredibly powerful and it can really, like, make or break an identity.

　　ANN PELLEGRINI: There are so many different ways to be gender nonconforming. And there's an explosion of new vocabularies– to talk about it.

　　IVETTE FELICIANO: Ann Pellegrini is the Director of the Center for Gender and Sexuality at New York University.

　　ANN PELLEGRINI: Many gender non-conforming people don't experience themselves as having been born into the wrong body. But– they might find themselves deeply uncomfortable with the kinds of straightjackets of gender. The ways in which, you know, you're supposed to sort of present, again, this very narrow notion of femininity if you have a female body, a very narrow notion of masculinity if you have a male body.

　　"I'm not stuck in anybody's body, it's just who I am as a person."

　　IVETTE FELICIANO: Last month about 17-million people tuned⁹ in to watch legendary¹⁰ Olympic gold medalist and cable TV star Bruce Jenner's interview with Diane Sawyer. They discussed the long-speculated-upon subject of Jenner's transgender identity. While Jenner identifies as a woman, he has not yet indicated that a new name or pronouns should be used, and he also says he's heterosexual, introducing many viewers to a complex gender identity-one that doesn't fit neatly¹¹ into a male/female binary¹².

　　Yet Ann Pellegrini says even before this big TV. moment, momentum¹³ was already building, as recently there has been an explosion of gender non-conforming people in mainstream¹⁴ media, challenging conventional gender roles.

　　KATIE COURIC: This is the first time an openly transgender person has appeared on the cover of Time Magazine…Why now do you think, Laverne?

　　LAVERNE COX: Because of the internet and because of social media trans people we our voices now, and we are letting our voice be heard.

　　JANET MOCK: I think that we are born and we're assigned a sex at birth. That is a matter none of us have control over. But we do have control over our destinies and over our identities — and we should be respected.

　　IVETTE FELICIANO: Professor Ann Pellegrini believes that the growing visibility of gender-non-conforming people and the legalization of same-sex marriage in 37 states, has forced the fashion world to acknowledge the presence and buying power of the LGBTQ community.

　　ANN PELLEGRINI: The really short answer would be capitalism¹⁵. At the end of the day it's about seeing that there's a market.

　　RACHEL TUTERA: I've met a lot of people who say things like they've been putting off getting married for ten years because they couldn't fathom¹⁶ what they would wear.

　　IVETTE FELICIANO: The research company, Gallup, estimates about 780,000 people have joined same-sex marriages since 2004, when Massachusetts became the first U.S. state to legalize them. Since then, more than a dozen fashion brands that specifically cater¹⁷ to what they call the "unconventionally masculine" have taken off around the country.

　　IVETTE FELICIANO: And now many mainstream fashion institutions are following suit. In 2012, Ford¹⁸ Models chose female Olympic swimmer and New York artist, Casey Legler, as its newest menswear model. In the same year, Yves Saint Laurent chose a female model as the face of its Spring/Summer menswear collection. Last year, luxury retailer¹⁹ Barneys New York featured 17 transgender models in its spring campaign. And just this year Vogue²⁰ magazine profiled a transgender model for the first time in the magazine's history.

　　ANN PELLEGRINI: None of these designers would be sort of trying to produce clothes that would appeal to masculine women if they didn't think there were people who could walk in with a wallet and pull out a credit card.

　　IVETTE FELICIANO: Though mainstream designers are starting to cater to the needs of the LGBTQ community, some shoppers say that sort of acceptance hasn't trickled²¹ down to their stores.

　　IVETTE FELICIANO: What was surprising to you when just trying to shop at a store– and going into a fitting room?

　　RACHEL TUTERA: There's a weird²² tendency in people to panic when they can't tell if you're a man or a woman, or how you or how you may identify.

　　IVETTE FELICIANO: Rachel Tutera says many gender non-conforming people experience being forcefully removed from gendered fitting rooms by salespeople²³, and that discrimination and judgment²⁴ is often inevitable²⁵. That's why three years ago she started a fashion blog called "The Handsome Butch". The site hopes to empower readers with a simple message, which is that they too have "the right to be handsome."

　　RACHEL TUTERA: It was almost like a meditation²⁶ I had for myself when I was first shopping. It was, "I have the right to be here". I think I just had to say over and over to myself, "you have the right to be handsome. You have the right to be handsome–" until it actually felt like a right instead of, like– like, a meditation I was trying to convince myself was true.

　　IVETTE FELICIANO: Tutera's work will be featured in an upcoming documentary produced by Lena Dunham of the hit HBO series "Girls". She says the one thing she won't be tailoring in the coming months is her message.

1 gender   

n.（生理上的）性，（名词、代词等的）性

参考例句：

• French differs from English in having gender for all nouns.法语不同于英语，所有的名词都有性。
• Women are sometimes denied opportunities solely because of their gender.妇女有时仅仅因为性别而无法获得种种机会。

2 authentic   

a.真的，真正的；可靠的，可信的，有根据的

参考例句：

• This is an authentic news report. We can depend on it. 这是篇可靠的新闻报道, 我们相信它。
• Autumn is also the authentic season of renewal. 秋天才是真正的除旧布新的季节。

3 cuff   

n.袖口；手铐；护腕；vt.用手铐铐；上袖口

参考例句：

• She hoped they wouldn't cuff her hands behind her back.她希望他们不要把她反铐起来。
• Would you please draw together the snag in my cuff?请你把我袖口上的裂口缝上好吗？

4 frustration   

n.挫折，失败，失效，落空

参考例句：

• He had to fight back tears of frustration.他不得不强忍住失意的泪水。
• He beat his hands on the steering wheel in frustration.他沮丧地用手打了几下方向盘。

5 decided   

adj.决定了的，坚决的；明显的，明确的

参考例句：

• This gave them a decided advantage over their opponents.这使他们比对手具有明显的优势。
• There is a decided difference between British and Chinese way of greeting.英国人和中国人打招呼的方式有很明显的区别。

6 aligned   

adj.对齐的，均衡的

参考例句：

• Make sure the shelf is aligned with the top of the cupboard.务必使搁架与橱柜顶端对齐。

7 liaison   

n.联系，（未婚男女间的）暖昧关系，私通

参考例句：

• She acts as a liaison between patients and staff.她在病人与医护人员间充当沟通的桥梁。
• She is responsible for liaison with researchers at other universities.她负责与其他大学的研究人员联系。

8 mundane   

adj.平凡的；尘世的；宇宙的

参考例句：

• I hope I can get an interesting job and not something mundane.我希望我可以得到的是一份有趣的工作，而不是一份平凡无奇的。
• I find it humorous sometimes that even the most mundane occurrences can have an impact on our awareness.我发现生活有时挺诙谐的，即使是最平凡的事情也能影响我们的感知。

9 tuned   

adj.调谐的，已调谐的v.调音( tune的过去式和过去分词 )；调整；（给收音机、电视等）调谐；使协调

参考例句：

• The resort is tuned in to the tastes of young and old alike. 这个度假胜地适合各种口味，老少皆宜。
• The instruments should be tuned up before each performance. 每次演出开始前都应将乐器调好音。 来自《简明英汉词典》

10 legendary   

adj.传奇（中）的，闻名遐迩的；n.传奇（文学）

参考例句：

• Legendary stories are passed down from parents to children.传奇故事是由父母传给孩子们的。
• Odysseus was a legendary Greek hero.奥狄修斯是传说中的希腊英雄。

11 neatly   

adv.整洁地，干净地，灵巧地，熟练地

参考例句：

• Sailors know how to wind up a long rope neatly.水手们知道怎样把一条大绳利落地缠好。
• The child's dress is neatly gathered at the neck.那孩子的衣服在领口处打着整齐的皱褶。

12 binary   

adj.二，双；二进制的；n.双(体)；联星

参考例句：

• Computers operate using binary numbers.计算机运行运用二进位制。
• Let us try converting the number itself to binary.我们试一试，把这个数本身变成二进制数。

13 momentum   

n.动力，冲力，势头；动量

参考例句：

• We exploit the energy and momentum conservation laws in this way.我们就是这样利用能量和动量守恒定律的。
• The law of momentum conservation could supplant Newton's third law.动量守恒定律可以取代牛顿第三定律。

14 mainstream   

n.（思想或行为的）主流；adj.主流的

参考例句：

• Their views lie outside the mainstream of current medical opinion.他们的观点不属于当今医学界观点的主流。
• Polls are still largely reflects the mainstream sentiment.民调还在很大程度上反映了社会主流情绪。

15 capitalism   

n.资本主义

参考例句：

• The essence of his argument is that capitalism cannot succeed.他的论点的核心是资本主义不能成功。
• Capitalism began to develop in Russia in the 19th century.十九世纪资本主义在俄国开始发展。

16 fathom   

v.领悟，彻底了解

参考例句：

• I really couldn't fathom what he was talking about.我真搞不懂他在说些什么。
• What these people hoped to achieve is hard to fathom.这些人希望实现些什么目标难以揣测。

17 cater   

vi.(for/to)满足，迎合；(for)提供饮食及服务

参考例句：

• I expect he will be able to cater for your particular needs.我预计他能满足你的特殊需要。
• Most schools cater for children of different abilities.大多数学校能够满足具有不同天资的儿童的需要。

18 Ford   

n.浅滩，水浅可涉处；v.涉水，涉过

参考例句：

• They were guarding the bridge,so we forded the river.他们驻守在那座桥上，所以我们只能涉水过河。
• If you decide to ford a stream,be extremely careful.如果已决定要涉过小溪，必须极度小心。

19 retailer   

n.零售商(人)

参考例句：

• What are the retailer requirements?零售商会有哪些要求呢？
• The retailer has assembled a team in Shanghai to examine the question.这家零售商在上海组建了一支团队研究这个问题。

20 Vogue   

n.时髦，时尚；adj.流行的

参考例句：

• Flowery carpets became the vogue.花卉地毯变成了时髦货。
• Short hair came back into vogue about ten years ago.大约十年前短发又开始流行起来了。

21 trickled   

v.滴( trickle的过去式和过去分词 )；淌；使)慢慢走；缓慢移动

参考例句：

• Blood trickled down his face. 血从他脸上一滴滴流下来。 来自《简明英汉词典》
• The tears trickled down her cheeks. 热泪一滴滴从她脸颊上滚下来。 来自《简明英汉词典》

22 weird   

adj.古怪的，离奇的；怪诞的，神秘而可怕的

参考例句：

• From his weird behaviour,he seems a bit of an oddity.从他不寻常的行为看来，他好像有点怪。
• His weird clothes really gas me.他的怪衣裳简直笑死人。

23 salespeople   

n.售货员，店员；售货员( salesperson的名词复数 )

参考例句：

• The shop usually employs additional salespeople for the Christmas toy trade. 这家商店通常雇一些临时售货员来做圣诞节玩具生意。 来自《现代汉英综合大词典》
• Under our new system, salespeople sit down with each of our dealers. 根据新的制度，销售人员应逐个地同承销商洽商。 来自辞典例句

24 judgment   

n.审判；判断力，识别力，看法，意见

参考例句：

• The chairman flatters himself on his judgment of people.主席自认为他审视人比别人高明。
• He's a man of excellent judgment.他眼力过人。

25 inevitable   

adj.不可避免的，必然发生的

参考例句：

• Mary was wearing her inevitable large hat.玛丽戴着她总是戴的那顶大帽子。
• The defeat had inevitable consequences for British policy.战败对英国政策不可避免地产生了影响。

26 meditation   

n.熟虑，（尤指宗教的）默想，沉思，（pl.）冥想录

参考例句：

• This peaceful garden lends itself to meditation.这个恬静的花园适于冥想。
• I'm sorry to interrupt your meditation.很抱歉，我打断了你的沉思。