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21.
Must’ve been early spring, 1999. I must’ve been home from Eton for the weekend.
I woke to find Pa on the edge of my bed, saying I was going back to Africa.
Africa, Pa?
Yes, darling boy.
Why?
It was the same old problem, he explained. I was facing a longish school holiday, over Easter,and something needed to be done with me. So, Africa. Botswana, to be precise. A safari1.
Safari! With you, Pa?
No. Alas2, he wouldn’t be going along this time. But Willy would.
Oh, good.
And someone very special, he added, acting3 as our African guide.
Who, Pa?
Marko.
Marko? I barely knew the man, though I’d heard good things. He was Willy’s minder, andWilly seemed to like him very much. Everyone did, for that matter. Of all Pa’s people there wasconsensus that Marko was the best. The roughest, the toughest, the most dashing.
Longtime Welsh Guard. Raconteur4. Man’s man, through and through.
I was so excited about the prospect5 of this Marko-led safari, I don’t know how I got throughthe following weeks of school. I don’t actually recall getting through them, in fact. Memory winksout completely, right after Pa delivered the news, then snaps back into focus as I’m boarding aBritish Airways6 jet with Marko and Willy and Tiggy—one of our nannies. Our favorite nanny, tobe accurate, though Tiggy couldn’t stand being called that. She’d bite the head off anyone whotried. I’m not the nanny, I’m your friend!
Mummy, sadly, didn’t see it that way. Mummy saw Tiggy not as a nanny but as a rival. It’scommon knowledge that Mummy suspected Tiggy was being groomed7 as her future replacement8.
(Did Mummy see Tiggy as her Spare?) Now this same woman whom Mummy feared as herpossible replacement was her actual replacement—how dreadful for Mummy. Every hug or headpat from Tiggy, therefore, must’ve unleashed9 some twinge of guilt10, some throb11 of disloyalty, andyet I don’t remember that. I remember only heart-racing joy to have Tiggy next to me, telling meto buckle12 my seatbelt.
We flew direct to Johannesburg, then by prop13 plane to Maun, the largest city in northernBotswana. There we met up with a large group of safari guides, who steered14 us into a convoy15 ofopen- topped Land Cruisers. We drove off, straight into pure wilderness16, towards the vastOkavango Delta17, which I soon discovered was possibly the most exquisite18 place in the world.
The Okavango is often called a river, but that’s like calling Windsor Castle a house. A vastinland delta, smack19 in the middle of the Kalahari Desert, one of the largest deserts on earth, thelower Okavango is bone dry for part of the year. But come late summer it begins to fill withfloodwaters from upstream, little droplets20 that begin as rainfall in the Angola highlands and slowlyswell to a trickle21, then a flow, which steadily22 transforms the delta into not one river but dozens.
From outer space it looks like the chambers23 of a heart filling with blood.
With water comes life. A profusion24 of animals, possibly the most biodiverse collectionanywhere, they come to drink, bathe, mate. Imagine if the Ark suddenly appeared, then capsized.
As we neared this enchanted25 place, I had trouble catching26 my breath. Lions, zebras, giraffes,hippos—surely this was all a dream. At last we stopped—our campsite for the next week. The spotwas bustling27 with more guides, more trackers, a dozen people at least. Lots of high fives, bearhugs, names flung at us. Harry28, William, say hello to Adi! (Twenty years old, long hair, sweetsmile.) Harry, William, say hi to Roger and David.
And at the center of it all stood Marko, like a traffic cop, directing, cajoling, embracing,barking, laughing, always laughing.
In no time he’d pulled our campsite into shape. Big green canvas tents, soft canvas chairsgrouped in circles, including one enormous circle around a stone-rimmed campfire. When I thinkabout that trip, my mind goes immediately to that fire—just as my skinny body did then. The firewas where we’d all collect at regular intervals29 throughout the day. First thing in the morning,again at midday, again at dusk—and, above all, after supper. We’d stare into that fire, then up atthe universe. The stars looked like sparks from the logs.
One of the guides called the fire Bush TV.
Yes, I said, every time you throw a new log on, it’s like changing the channel.
They all loved that.
The fire, I noticed, hypnotized, or narcotized, every adult in our party. In its orange glow theirfaces grew softer, their tongues looser. Then, as the hour got later, out came the whisky, and theywould all undergo another sea change.
Their laughter would get…louder.
I’d think: More of this, please. More fire, more talk, more loud laughter. I’d been scared ofdarkness all my life, and it turned out Africa had a cure.
The campfire.
1 safari | |
n.远征旅行(探险、考察);探险队,狩猎队 | |
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2 alas | |
int.唉(表示悲伤、忧愁、恐惧等) | |
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3 acting | |
n.演戏,行为,假装;adj.代理的,临时的,演出用的 | |
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4 raconteur | |
n.善讲故事者 | |
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5 prospect | |
n.前景,前途;景色,视野 | |
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6 AIRWAYS | |
航空公司 | |
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7 groomed | |
v.照料或梳洗(马等)( groom的过去式和过去分词 );使做好准备;训练;(给动物)擦洗 | |
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8 replacement | |
n.取代,替换,交换;替代品,代用品 | |
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9 unleashed | |
v.把(感情、力量等)释放出来,发泄( unleash的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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10 guilt | |
n.犯罪;内疚;过失,罪责 | |
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11 throb | |
v.震颤,颤动;(急速强烈地)跳动,搏动 | |
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12 buckle | |
n.扣子,带扣;v.把...扣住,由于压力而弯曲 | |
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13 prop | |
vt.支撑;n.支柱,支撑物;支持者,靠山 | |
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14 steered | |
v.驾驶( steer的过去式和过去分词 );操纵;控制;引导 | |
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15 convoy | |
vt.护送,护卫,护航;n.护送;护送队 | |
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16 wilderness | |
n.杳无人烟的一片陆地、水等,荒漠 | |
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17 delta | |
n.(流的)角洲 | |
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18 exquisite | |
adj.精美的;敏锐的;剧烈的,感觉强烈的 | |
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19 smack | |
vt.拍,打,掴;咂嘴;vi.含有…意味;n.拍 | |
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20 droplets | |
n.小滴( droplet的名词复数 ) | |
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21 trickle | |
vi.淌,滴,流出,慢慢移动,逐渐消散 | |
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22 steadily | |
adv.稳定地;不变地;持续地 | |
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23 chambers | |
n.房间( chamber的名词复数 );(议会的)议院;卧室;会议厅 | |
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24 profusion | |
n.挥霍;丰富 | |
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25 enchanted | |
adj. 被施魔法的,陶醉的,入迷的 动词enchant的过去式和过去分词 | |
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26 catching | |
adj.易传染的,有魅力的,迷人的,接住 | |
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27 bustling | |
adj.喧闹的 | |
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28 harry | |
vt.掠夺,蹂躏,使苦恼 | |
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29 intervals | |
n.[军事]间隔( interval的名词复数 );间隔时间;[数学]区间;(戏剧、电影或音乐会的)幕间休息 | |
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