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41.
My plane landed on an archipelago called Svalbard. March 2011.
Stepping off the plane I did a slow turn, taking it all in. White, white, and more white. As faras the eye could see, nothing but ivory, snowy whiteness. White mountains, white snowdrifts,white hills, and threaded through it were narrow white roads, and not many of those. Most of thetwo thousand local residents had a snowmobile, not a car. The landscape was so minimalist, sospare, I thought: Maybe I’ll move here.
Maybe this is my purpose.
Then I found out about the local law forbidding anyone to leave town without a gun, becausethe hills beyond were patrolled by desperately1 hungry polar bears, and I thought: Maybe not.
We drove into a town called Longyearbyen, the northernmost town on earth, a mere2 eighthundred miles from the apex3 of the planet. I met my fellow trekkers. Captain Guy Disney, acavalryman who’d lost the lower part of his right leg to an RPG. Captain Martin Hewitt, aparatrooper whose arm became paralyzed after he’d been shot. Private Jaco Van Gass, anotherparatrooper, who’d lost much of his left leg and half his left arm to an RPG. (He gave theremaining nib4 of his arm a jaunty5 nickname, Nemo, which always cracked us up.) Sergeant6 SteveYoung, a Welshman, whose back had been broken by an IED. Doctors said he’d never walk again,and now he was about to tug7 a 200-pound sledge8 to the North Pole.
Inspiring lot. I told them I was honored to join them, honored just to be in their company, andit didn’t matter that the temperature was thirty below. In fact, the weather was so bad we weredelayed in setting off.
Ugh, Willy’s wedding, I thought, my face in my hands.
We spent several days waiting, training, eating pizza and chips at the local pub. We did someexercises to acclimatize to the harsh temperatures. We pulled on orange immersion9 suits, jumpedinto the Arctic Ocean. Shocking how much warmer the water was than the brutally10 cold air.
But mostly we got to know each other, bonded11.
When the weather finally cleared we hopped12 onto an Antonov and flew up to a makeshift icecamp, then switched to helicopters and flew to within two hundred miles of the Pole. It was aboutone a.m. when we landed, but bright as midday in a desert. There was no darkness up there:
darkness had been banished13. We waved goodbye to the helicopters and began.
Experts on Arctic conditions had urged the team to avoid sweating, because any moisturefreezes instantly at the North Pole, which causes all kinds of problems. But no one told me. I’dmissed those training sessions with the experts. So there I was, after the first day’s walk, after thepulling of heavy sledges14, absolutely gushing15 perspiration16, and sure enough my clothes wereturning to solid ice. More alarming, I was beginning to notice the first spots of trouble on myfingers and ears.
Frostnip.
I didn’t complain. How could I, among that bunch? But I also didn’t feel like complaining.
Despite the discomfort17, I felt only gratitude18 at being with such heroes, at serving such a worthycause, at seeing a place so few people ever get to see. In fact, on Day Four, when it came time toleave, I didn’t want to. Also, we hadn’t yet reached the Pole.
Alas19, I had no choice. It was leave now or miss my brother’s wedding.
I got onto a helicopter, bound for Barneo Airfield20, from which my plane was to take off.
The pilot hesitated. He insisted that I needed to see the Pole before leaving. You can’t come allthis way and not see it, he said. So he flew me there and we hopped out into total whiteout.
Together, we located the exact spot with GPS.
Standing21 on top of the world.
Alone.
Back on the helicopter, off to Barneo. But just then, a powerful storm came sweeping23 acrossthe top of the earth, canceling my flight, canceling all flights. Hurricane winds battered24 the area,growing so intense that they cracked the runway.
Repairs would be required.
While waiting, I hung out with an assortment25 of engineers. We drank vodka, sat in theirmakeshift sauna, then jumped into the ice-cold ocean. Many times I tipped back my head, downedanother shot of delicious vodka, told myself not to stress about the runway, the wedding, anything.
The storm passed, the runway got rebuilt, or moved, I forget which. My plane went roaringdown the ice and lifted me into the blue sky. I waved out the window. Goodbye, my brothers.
1 desperately | |
adv.极度渴望地,绝望地,孤注一掷地 | |
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2 mere | |
adj.纯粹的;仅仅,只不过 | |
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3 apex | |
n.顶点,最高点 | |
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4 nib | |
n.钢笔尖;尖头 | |
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5 jaunty | |
adj.愉快的,满足的;adv.心满意足地,洋洋得意地;n.心满意足;洋洋得意 | |
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6 sergeant | |
n.警官,中士 | |
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7 tug | |
v.用力拖(或拉);苦干;n.拖;苦干;拖船 | |
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8 sledge | |
n.雪橇,大锤;v.用雪橇搬运,坐雪橇往 | |
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9 immersion | |
n.沉浸;专心 | |
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10 brutally | |
adv.残忍地,野蛮地,冷酷无情地 | |
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11 bonded | |
n.有担保的,保税的,粘合的 | |
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12 hopped | |
跳上[下]( hop的过去式和过去分词 ); 单足蹦跳; 齐足(或双足)跳行; 摘葎草花 | |
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13 banished | |
v.放逐,驱逐( banish的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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14 sledges | |
n.雪橇,雪车( sledge的名词复数 )v.乘雪橇( sledge的第三人称单数 );用雪橇运载 | |
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15 gushing | |
adj.迸出的;涌出的;喷出的;过分热情的v.喷,涌( gush的现在分词 );滔滔不绝地说话 | |
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16 perspiration | |
n.汗水;出汗 | |
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17 discomfort | |
n.不舒服,不安,难过,困难,不方便 | |
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18 gratitude | |
adj.感激,感谢 | |
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19 alas | |
int.唉(表示悲伤、忧愁、恐惧等) | |
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20 airfield | |
n.飞机场 | |
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21 standing | |
n.持续,地位;adj.永久的,不动的,直立的,不流动的 | |
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22 jack | |
n.插座,千斤顶,男人;v.抬起,提醒,扛举;n.(Jake)杰克 | |
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23 sweeping | |
adj.范围广大的,一扫无遗的 | |
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24 battered | |
adj.磨损的;v.连续猛击;磨损 | |
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25 assortment | |
n.分类,各色俱备之物,聚集 | |
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