2016年CRI Elemental Fusion: Spanish gemologist embraces jewelry designs with cultural implications

 

For many foreigners, part of the attraction of China is its mysterious and ancient splendor¹. But what attracts Chinese people? It was something that Paloma Sanchez, a certified² GIA gemologist from Spain, had to learn through first-hand experience. Passionate⁴ about gemstones, she opened her first jewelry⁶ shop in Beijing in 2008.

"When I first opened with all these real different designs, it was very avant garde, even for Europe. Everybody was like, are you crazy? You're not going to sell anything here. Chinese people do not like that. But the third month, I was already saving money. Not only living out of this little shop, but saving money."

What happened next was above and beyond her expectations. Chinese jewelry shoppers adapted and began favoring what she had to offer. Apart from the designs, they were also attracted to her way of working - Sanchez sources, designs and sells all her work exclusively in her store.

In 2015, she created a new collection that took her to the next level of craftsmanship⁷ in China. The collection explored a fusion⁸ of elements, a combination of modern designs but using Chinese craftsmanship from the Qing Dynasty. Her brand is now known not just in China, but all over the world, like London, Paris, Montreal and Dubai.

"Then with Dian Cui, Dian Cui is a very very old technique from the Qing Dynasty. So I was using these pieces, combined with my modern designs. It's with very little small feather, kingfisher birds, the feathers are electric blue and there were like only little pieces that are around 300 pieces, I'm buying with modern designs, was husband with very old antique Tibetan pieces, Tibetan cultural and western cultural together, and I think this also has not only helped me understand Chinese culture but also been accepted by Chinese."

Paloma Sanchez not only fused Chinese cultural elements into her work, but also has woven them into her business practices too. As a gemologist, she traveled across China searching for the best quality gemstones - sapphires⁹, opals and everything she needed. She spoke¹⁰ to consumers and Chinese mine owners to keep on top of industry tastes and trends.

2016 has been a relatively¹¹ slow year for China's gem³ and jewelry sector¹², with consumers and designers both going through a period of adjustment.

Shi Hongyue, deputy of the Gem and Jewelry Trade Association of China, says like the economy as a whole, the industry is finding a new normal - turning its back on excessive growth, and focusing on better quality and design, creativity, and cultural significance.

"Gem and jewelry is actually a part of cultural economy. Culture is very important. Without culture, gems⁵ are nothing but cold stones. Jewelry designs should be a project. We should inspire and invigorate the designers in this industry."

And maybe that's behind the success of Paloma Sanchez in China - early on she embraced this new normal in the jewelry sector ... uniting beautiful gemstones, with avant-garde designs, infused with cultural meaning.

For CRI, I'm Min Rui.

1 splendor   

n.光彩；壮丽，华丽；显赫，辉煌

参考例句：

• Never in his life had he gazed on such splendor.他生平从没有见过如此辉煌壮丽的场面。
• All the splendor in the world is not worth a good friend.人世间所有的荣华富贵不如一个好朋友。

2 certified   

a.经证明合格的；具有证明文件的

参考例句：

• Doctors certified him as insane. 医生证明他精神失常。
• The planes were certified airworthy. 飞机被证明适于航行。

3 gem   

n.宝石，珠宝；受爱戴的人 [同]jewel

参考例句：

• The gem is beyond my pocket.这颗宝石我可买不起。
• The little gem is worth two thousand dollars.这块小宝石价值两千美元。

4 passionate   

adj.热情的，热烈的，激昂的，易动情的，易怒的，性情暴躁的

参考例句：

• He is said to be the most passionate man.据说他是最有激情的人。
• He is very passionate about the project.他对那个项目非常热心。

5 gems   

growth； economy； management； and customer satisfaction 增长

参考例句：

• a crown studded with gems 镶有宝石的皇冠
• The apt citations and poetic gems have adorned his speeches. 贴切的引语和珠玑般的诗句为他的演说词增添文采。

6 jewelry   

n.（jewllery）（总称）珠宝

参考例句：

• The burglars walked off with all my jewelry.夜盗偷走了我的全部珠宝。
• Jewelry and lace are mostly feminine belongings.珠宝和花边多数是女性用品。

7 craftsmanship   

n.手艺

参考例句：

• The whole house is a monument to her craftsmanship. 那整座房子是她技艺的一座丰碑。
• We admired the superb craftsmanship of the furniture. 我们很欣赏这个家具的一流工艺。

8 fusion   

n.溶化；熔解；熔化状态，熔和；熔接

参考例句：

• Brass is formed by the fusion of copper and zinc. 黄铜是通过铜和锌的熔合而成的。
• This alloy is formed by the fusion of two types of metal.这种合金是用两种金属熔合而成的。

9 sapphires   

n.蓝宝石，钢玉宝石( sapphire的名词复数 )；蔚蓝色

参考例句：

• Again there was that moment of splintered sapphires before the lids, dropping like scales, extinguished it. 她眼眶中又闪烁出蓝宝石的光彩，接着眼睑象鱼鳞般地垂落下来，双目又黯然失色了。 来自辞典例句
• She also sported a somewhat gawdy gold watch set with diamonds and sapphires. 她还收到一块镶着钻石和蓝宝石的金表。 来自辞典例句

10 spoke   

n.（车轮的）辐条；轮辐；破坏某人的计划；阻挠某人的行动 v.讲，谈（speak的过去式）；说；演说；从某种观点来说

参考例句：

• They sourced the spoke nuts from our company.他们的轮辐螺帽是从我们公司获得的。
• The spokes of a wheel are the bars that connect the outer ring to the centre.辐条是轮子上连接外圈与中心的条棒。

11 relatively   

adv.比较...地，相对地

参考例句：

• The rabbit is a relatively recent introduction in Australia.兔子是相对较新引入澳大利亚的物种。
• The operation was relatively painless.手术相对来说不痛。

12 sector   

n.部门，部分；防御地段，防区；扇形

参考例句：

• The export sector will aid the economic recovery. 出口产业将促进经济复苏。
• The enemy have attacked the British sector.敌人已进攻英国防区。